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Hi everyone.
I'm really happy to be here!
I've sent the below to Haltech looking for help, but I'm feeling a friend here may be able to help me along a little better and easier to understand.
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Hi there folks.
I’m trying to get my 1991 GTR32 up and running and am in need of some help before I can drive to my tuner.
My tuner is inacceptable to me until I get the car to them and I would REALLY prefer to drive it there.
I have a couple of questions below and hope you can help me and or send me to the correct person.
I have a 2500 Elite and am having a tough time with the documentation I’m finding relating to ignition and injection configuration as some terminology is not worded the same.
I have basic tuning experience with my old Power FC.
I’m coming from old tech to Haltech’s products.
Would you be so kind as to tell me what should be entered in the table below for my genuine Hitachi R35 coils please?
The table on Haltech’s website has no mention of RPM vs Voltage as in NSP.
The images are attached.
Please forgive my ignorance..
My second question is correct settings for my 800cc top feed injectors. I was able to set this all up on my own successfully in the old Power FC, but it’s not the same environment at all obviously.
Please instruct me on this.
Flow Rate
Type
Impedance
Hole
Coupler Color
Coupler Form
Dead Time
Parts No.
Retail Price
(Without Tax)
800cc
TOP
Low
2
Yellow green
Oval
1.10msec
63566
\13,125
(\12,500)
I’ve chosen to go with the below settings from the included profiles in NSP, but although it’s for 800cc SARD top feed injectors it’s unclear to me of the parameters are completely correct for my injectors mentioned above.
What setting should I chose for “low dwell” - Images atatched
Should I chose 1-3 Ohm?
I'm glad you're enjoyin HPA!
If you're paying someone to tune the car, they should be able to provide you with a base file including these items.
You can do a resistance check across the injector pins to determine what setting to choose. Based on the available settings, see if it's 1-3 ohms, 3-8 ohms, or high would be 10-16.
It looks like you posted the coil dwell settings so you have those.
Hi Mike.
Thanks for writing back to me. I appreciate it.
I'm going to measure my injectors.
My issue concerning the coil packs is not knowing how to enter dwell settings into Haltch's NSP software for my Elite 2500 as their chart with the coils does not match what we see in NSP.
The NSP software is RPM vs Voltage, but not the product spec chart so they've lost me on that one.
Andrew,
You can remove the RPM axis and enter exactly what's in the chart, or you can use RPM, MAP, TPS for example as an axis and reduce charging of the coils when full output isn't required.
Thanks for getting back to me Mike!
I’ve finally got everything setup to start my RB for the first time on my Haltech Elite 2500.
I’m very sad to say that the wind has been knocked out of my sails…
I have no spark on Coils 3, 4 and 5….
I’m lost as to why this would be.
I checked the coil packs to ensure the springs have enough pressure in them. They’re fine. I stretched them just a touch to see if there was a poor connection, but no.
I have a wiring specialties loom installed which is unaltered and was working before with my PowerFC.
I also have Hitachi GTR35 coils which were also installed and working previously.
I’ve loaded the test map from Haltech for my engine.
Any help making this thing fire on all 6 would be immensely appreciated.
My heart sank.. I was so excited to use my car again after sitting on jack stands for the last 2 years.
It sounds like you're saying you've plugged the PowerFC in, and the car runs fine on 6 cylinders, but when you plug the Haltech in, coils 3,4,5 don't fire.
If that is the case, that narrows it down to ECU settings, ECU itself, jumper harness.
If you haven't done a back to back test putting the powerFC back in, I would do that to narrow things down.
Have you confirmed the jumpers are set properly for your application? Image attached.
If jumpers are set properly and you're using a Haltech provided startup file for your exact application, it's unlikely that file would make some but not all coils fire, so the harness seems worth investigating next.
Hi Mike!
So, last night I started by installing my original coil packs and ignition module back in and got the same behavior. I'm going to swap my PowerFC back in and see what the old fella does.
If it runs on all 6 I won't have to check the harness with my multimeter, right?
I am running the startup configuration file from Haltech for my engine.
I'll also check the jumper settings in the adapter harness - I looked at them when I bought everything, but maybe I made a mistake there.
Please let us know how it goes. Yes checking the haltech jumper harness with a multimeter to confirm it's pinned correctly and has good continuity across the pins for the coils that aren't firing would be a good test IF the jumpers are correct, and IF the car runs fine on all 6 with the old ECU and the haltech jumper harness disconnected.
Thanks so much for your support. It means a lot! I'll be back in touch after I get back home and try my old PFC.
Any chance the Haltech is configured for wasted spark with 3 ignition outputs?
It's set as "Direct", but I'll double check. Thanks for the idea.
I checked the base file the other day and it's set for direct spark.
Just checked the coil settings and they are: Direct Fire, Falling edge, constant charge
The follwoing may be noteworthy: The fuel line pressure drops quite quickly once the engine is shut down, it's also been ahrd to start before my 3 cyclenders working scenario after having sat parked for 3 years. Perhaps the injectors are gummed up and partially stuck open?
Nothing with the injectors will keep the coils from sparking.
If you are on either the Diagnostics or Trigger Setup pages when cranking, do you see any error, or clues -- What is the Trigger SyncState? Are their any Trig Errs? Does Home % Travel stay constant?
I'm going to check those parameters and values, but I just tried to start with my PowerFC and the original maffs and the engine sputters and immediately dies.
It runs with the haltech but the lumpy Black smoke spewing idle does not change when I disconnect coil 3, 4 or 5.
I'm thinking my injectors that sat for years with fuel that varnished into fluorescent yellow residue as seen when clearing out the lines during installation of a new pump and filter could be a problem no?
EDIT: There are no erros shown on the right hand side within NSP.
Andrew,
Good work narrowing things down!
Were you thinking there's no spark from some coils because engine behavior didn't seem to change when they were unplugged, or did you verify there's no spark?
Hi Mike.
I presume no spark as disconnecting 3, 4 or 5 has no bearing on the engine. At the same time my injectors are certainly full of crap. Maybe they're stuck half or more open and drowning out the spark? The amount of unburnt fuel is quite high. AFRs were 11.8 to 12.2 or so on idle.
Got it. You've learned a valuable lesson then! Testing for actual spark is the best way to confirm whether you have spark or not.
When injectors have debris in them they rarely are even across the set, so what you see as 11.8-12.2 might be 15 on one cylinder and 9 on the next. You're seeing the average across the whole engine.
Makes sense! How can test for spark without damaging anything?
You can put an "inline spark tester" in place between coil and spark plug. They're cheap enough you could buy enough to test all 6 at once to save time.
Spark plugs can also be bench tested by themselves. The bench top testers for the spark plugs by themselves are often simply called spark plug testers.
Thanks Mike! I appreciate you man!
You're welcome! Please let us know what you find.
Will. I should have time to check a few things tomorrow. I have some feedback form Haltech I want to share as I'm not sure what they're getting at Asim using their preset config for my rb26. I'll post what they sent me tomorrow. Thanks