00:00 |
- Now that you've decided on the ring end gaps you want to run it's time to check and set these end gaps.
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00:06 |
The first step is to unpack your ring set and distribute the rings to each cylinder.
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00:12 |
When we're gapping the rings, we'll be doing so to suit each individual cylinder.
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00:17 |
This allows us to account for any minute variations in the finished bore size and ensures each ring end gap is perfect.
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00:26 |
When you unpack the rings, it's important to make a note of which ring is which.
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00:31 |
Usually, this is quite self-explanatory as the rings will be different thicknesses and hence will only fit into their respective ring groups.
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00:40 |
The ring manufacturer will also often package them separately and note on the packaging which is the top ring and the second ring, for example.
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00:49 |
Now, we need to fit the rings into the cylinders so that we can measure the end gaps as delivered.
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00:56 |
If you've used a torque plate to bore and hone the block, you're also going to want to check the ring end gaps with a torque plate installed.
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01:05 |
Installing the rings into the cylinder is best done by hand by slightly compressing the ring and gently pushing it down into the cylinder.
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01:14 |
We want to make our end gap measurement with the rings located a little way down the bore to give us an accurate measurement.
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01:22 |
And it's also critical to ensure the ring is sitting square in the bore before measuring the gap.
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01:28 |
There are special tools for locating the ring in the bore.
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01:32 |
However, if you don't have one of these tools I find the easiest solution is to use one of the pistons with one of the oil control rings temporarily installed on it.
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01:43 |
You can then press the piston into the cylinder upside down until the oil control ring contacts the deck surface of the block.
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01:52 |
This will locate the ring around about 20 millimetres down the bore and ensure that it's square, ready to be measured.
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01:59 |
Before measuring the end gap, it's a good idea to inspect the gap and see if the ends of the gap are parallel.
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02:06 |
It's common to find that the ends won't initially be parallel and we'll need to do some work to correct this while filing the ring end gap.
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02:15 |
Now we can use a set of feeler blades to check the end gap.
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02:19 |
We want to select a feeler blade that offers just a little resistance as it's pushed through the ring end gap.
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02:27 |
Now we have a starting point for the ring end gap.
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02:30 |
And we know that if the end gap is parallel so we can begin filing the ring.
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02:34 |
When filing the ring, we only want to file one end of the ring, not both.
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02:39 |
When selecting the end to file, you'll typically find that one end is relatively square and the other may be slightly irregular in shape from the manufacturing process.
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02:51 |
The aim is always to achieve a square and parallel end gap so we would choose to file the end that is irregular.
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02:59 |
When filing the rings, it's important to always file the ring from the outside towards the inside to avoid potentially damaging or chipping the inlay coating on the ring face.
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03:12 |
It's also easy to file the ring too far.
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03:14 |
So the key is to make small adjustments and check your progress frequently.
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03:20 |
Once the end gap has reached your desired measurement you can then deburr the ring end with a fine file.
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03:27 |
You can now go through and repeat the process for the remaining rings.
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03:31 |
This can be a slow and laborious job but it's one of the most critical parts of assembling the engine.
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03:37 |
And it needs to be treated with care.
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