Motorsport Plumbing Systems: Pressure Testing
Watch This Course
$129 USD $64.50 USD
-OR-
Or
8 easy payments of only $8.06
Instant access. Easy checkout. No fees.
Pressure Testing
03.01
| 00:00 | With our hose ends complete, whether that's using push lock, reusable or crimp style, we should ideally pressure test them before use. |
| 00:08 | This allows us to identify any leaks before installing them on the car and filling them with an expensive fluid, potentially causing a mess and wasting time with clean up and removing the hose to fix it again. |
| 00:21 | The worst case scenario though, this could result in serious damage to the engine with an oil leak or risk of a fire with a fuel leak. |
| 00:29 | Pressure testing kits are available in a range of different forms for all different sizes and types of fittings. |
| 00:35 | In most cases these will involve two test caps, one for each end of the hose. |
| 00:40 | One test cap will be blank while the other will have a Schrader air valve, just like what we use to pump up our tyres. |
| 00:48 | These are threaded and snugged up into each fitting, using the vice or soft jaws to support the fittings without damaging the surfaces. |
| 00:56 | Adding a small drop of oil on the flared surface can help ensure a seal and prevent damage. |
| 01:02 | With the caps in place and tight, we can pressurise the system using compressed air. |
| 01:07 | We want to pressurise it to at least our expected maximum operating pressure. |
| 01:12 | For example, this might be 43 psi for a fuel line or depending on the engine, around 65 psi for an oil line. |
| 01:20 | It's usually best to test significantly above this pressure, about double as good to give us a safety factor. |
| 01:27 | In saying that, some testing kits will have a limit that they're expected to handle, so we don't want to exceed this, and shop air supplies are commonly limited to around 120 psi give or take, so this might be our maximum regardless. |
| 01:42 | With our plumbing pressurised we can begin our test. |
| 01:45 | Certain testing kits will have an accurate gauge to measure the pressure in the line, and if this decreases we know we likely have a leak. |
| 01:53 | An alternative and more common method is to place the line in a container filled with clean water and watch for air bubbles. |
| 02:00 | If the container isn't big enough for the entire hose, we can do one end at a time as it's unlikely that we'll have a leak in the middle of the hose given we've used a quality new material. |
| 02:12 | We'll likely get some bubbles initially from air pockets trapped at the hose end in the overbraid. |
| 02:18 | Lightly flexing the hose and tapping the ends can help dislodge these, but if they persist, then there's a good chance we have a leak. |
| 02:26 | If so, we naturally need to redo our fittings and test again. |
| 02:30 | Once we're satisfied that we have no leaks, we can dry the hose off and it's ready for use. |
| 02:36 | In summary, pressure testing our hose assemblies is a necessary step if we don't want to risk wasting time and money and possibly creating a big mess or even worse, risking fire or damage to our engine. |
| 02:49 | Pressure testing kits allow us to pressurise our hose assemblies with air and then submerge them in water, checking for any bubbles which indicate leaks. |
