Motorsport Plumbing Systems: Working with Hardlines
Watch This Course
$129 USD $64.50 USD
-OR-
Or
8 easy payments of only $8.06
Instant access. Easy checkout. No fees.
Working with Hardlines
11.03
| 00:00 | Creating hard lines is an extremely satisfying DIY job that can go a long way in increasing performance, reliability and aesthetics. |
| 00:09 | When sourcing material it's common to get the smaller diameter hard lines, like brake lines for example, in a coil or roll as this is by far the most efficient form of packing and transportation. |
| 00:22 | Ideally we want to start with a straight section of tube so we can then add our required bends, cut the tube to length and flare the ends. |
| 00:30 | So, our coil of tube will need to be straightened and this process unsurprisingly is done with the use of a tool called a pipe straightener. |
| 00:37 | In most cases this features two rows of a series of rollers directly offset from each other. |
| 00:44 | The rollers have dies with grooves to suit the outer surface of the hard lines, meaning there's always a limit to the size of hard line that can be straightened. |
| 00:53 | The position of one row of rollers will be able to be adjusted relative to the other. |
| 00:58 | So, essentially the process starts with the roller rows well spaced, allowing the curved hard line to be fed through the middle. |
| 01:05 | The distance between the rollers can then be reduced continuously while forcing the piping back and forth between them, causing it to straighten. |
| 01:13 | This process can take a few minutes while rotating the piping on its main axis to get a nice straight section. |
| 01:20 | In saying that, it is possible to buy straight lengths of hard line, which is more common for large diameter and stainless steel. |
| 01:28 | When we have our straight materials, the next processes are measuring and understanding lengths and routing. |
| 01:34 | The best method for planning out our plumbing is to make a test piece from some form of thin metal that can be bent and straightened easily, like welding wire for example. |
| 01:45 | With this we can quickly prototype our plumbing to find the best possible solution for routings and from an acidic standpoint. |
| 01:52 | What's important is that we replicate the same bend radius centreline that we intend to use for our real lines so we can properly match the geometry and this could require using some separate tooling that we'll discuss shortly to bend the wire. |
| 02:07 | While bending and cutting hard lines could be done in either order depending on what we're working on and the spatial constraints, it's more common to make the bends we need and then cut the plumbing to length. |
| 02:19 | Cut bends can be made by hand, but it's important that we don't use this method for anything significant as we can't control the bend radius and we'll end up with a kink in the line where the bend is too sharp. |
| 02:31 | This kink will narrow the inside of the tube, leading to flow and pressure problems as well as a weak point that'll be prone to cracking. |
| 02:39 | Bend tools use a die for this reason, it allows us to control the bend radius and also features handles that act as lever arms, helping to make the bending process easier. |
| 02:50 | While aluminium and copper nickel lines are quite easy to bend, stainless steel, especially of larger diameter, can be more difficult so more leverage is helpful. |
| 03:00 | Let's take a look at the different bender options out there starting with the plier style. |
| 03:05 | This tends to be most useful when making brake lines in situ. |
| 03:09 | So, for example working underneath a car or in a tight engine bay. |
| 03:14 | These are available with multiple dies for different size hard lines and most often have quite a tight bend radius compared to the other styles of bender we'll discuss in a moment. |
| 03:24 | The process of bending involves clamping the line in the pliers with the point where we want the bend curve to start at the edge of the die. |
| 03:32 | It can be helpful to mark this position on the line with the aid of our test piece or with some measurements. |
| 03:39 | Then we want to simply force the pipe down by hand to our desired angle which we can measure or match by eye to our test piece to make sure that we've got it right. |
| 03:49 | If we've already made other bends, it's also critical we get the orientation of the part correct so we don't bend it in the wrong direction or some arbitrary angle. |
| 03:58 | This is going to be a case by case basis, but it helps to take our time and think through what we're trying to achieve so we don't have to turn back to the straightener and start fresh. |
| 04:09 | The other main type is commonly referred to as a tube bender. |
| 04:13 | These commonly incorporate three dies for different sized tubes so it's important we have the appropriate size for our application. |
| 04:21 | The arms provide leverage, making it easier to bend the material but as the tubing gets bigger or with stainless steel, we may need to clamp one side in a vice so we can apply more force to the other arm. |
| 04:33 | These benders also have markings to help us bend the tube accurately up to a 180 degree angle. |
| 04:40 | The basic bending method is to latch the tube between the stop and the die and line up the zero marks. |
| 04:46 | Then in one smooth motion we pull the arm around until the zero mark on the arms lines up with the desired angle on the form wheel, which is another name for the part of the tool that houses the dies. |
| 04:59 | The other thing to consider here is the location or position of our bend along the length of tube. |
| 05:05 | Similar to the method with the plier style bender, it's possible to set the start point of the curve by lining the desired point up with the zero markings before we start the bend. |
| 05:16 | But this tool also allows for some different methods, specifically for 90 degree bends and that's what the R and L markings are for, which stand for right and left, basically what end of the tube we measure from. |
| 05:29 | For example if we measure our test piece from the left end across a 90 degree bend to the centreline of the tubing and we get 100 millimetres, then we can mark 100 millimetres from the end of our tubing, line this up with the L mark, line up the zero marks on the tool and then bend around to 90 degrees. |
| 05:50 | The result should be as our test piece with 100 millimetres from the end of the tube across the bend to the centre of the tube. |
| 05:57 | But for some bending tools, this will be to the centre point of the bend curve, so we need to read the instructions for our tool and know what to measure on our test piece to be able to replicate it. |
| 06:09 | If we measure from the right end of the part, what's sometimes referred to as a reverse bend, our tubing will be latched into the tool with the other end against the stop, and we can use the same method. |
| 06:21 | Finally the mark between the R and the zero is used for a 45 degree bend and the same idea applies, with this mark representing the centre point of a 45 degree bend curve. |
| 06:33 | With our lines bent as required, the next step is cutting to length and for this we use a pipe cutter. |
| 06:39 | This is a simple tool with a sharp cutting wheel opposed to a set of rollers. |
| 06:44 | The pipe is held between the cutting wheel and the rollers, and as the pipe cutter is rotated, at the same time we can increase the pressure using the adjusting knob and we can cut through the pipe. |
| 06:55 | After the pipe is cut, the edge needs to be deburred so we're working with a nice clean end and burrs don't get caught during flaring, resulting in a rough flare that won't seal. |
| 07:06 | Some cutters will have an integral deburring tool or if not we can use a regular one that you can buy from most automotive tool stores. |
| 07:15 | Sometimes we might also want to use a flat file to make sure the cut end of the tube is flat and true. |
| 07:22 | The final step as you might have guessed is flaring the ends for whatever fittings we intend to use. |
| 07:27 | We've discussed these in some detail previously, but they'll most commonly be 45 degree double flares or bubble flares for brake lines, and single 37 degree flares for other plumbing using AN fittings. |
| 07:42 | We need to remember to always put the fitting on the line before flaring the end, as naturally it won't slide over the flare and it also won't slide around any bends. |
| 07:53 | If we get this wrong, we'll have to cut the end off and put the fitting on and then reflare the line. |
| 07:59 | This will result in a small reduction in the length which in the worst case could mean we have to remake the entire line. |
| 08:06 | As always there's a variety of tools available to get this job done, and the cheaper more manual screw version of a flare tool will do the job but is harder to use and as a result it takes a lot longer. |
| 08:19 | In our experience the flares from these tools don't always create a reliable seal and it's not uncommon to have to cut the flare off and redo it until we get what we want. |
| 08:30 | Not ideal when we've already filled the system with fluid. |
| 08:33 | We recommend using a professional flaring kit with a turret style index head and a compression lever. |
| 08:40 | While the initial investment will be a little higher, the quality of the finished flare, reliability of the seal it provides, and eliminating reworking failed or leaky flares will quickly justify the price point. |
| 08:53 | The process here requires first choosing an appropriate die block which will likely have two ends. |
| 08:59 | With it located in the holder we can slide the line into the centre and line it up with the end, of course making sure the fitting is in place first. |
| 09:09 | Some turrets will include a stop, often labelled operation zero, that we can use to position the line and get the end in the correct location. |
| 09:18 | Then we rotate the turret to the first operation of the desired flare type for the correct diameter tube. |
| 09:24 | For example operation one for a 45 degree flare on a 3/16ths hardline. |
| 09:31 | Adding a small amount of lubricant to the contacting surfaces of the forming tool helps to reduce wear on the parts and ensure we get a nice flared surface. |
| 09:41 | We then pull the lever around to create the first form and this can take a fair amount of pressure but there's a clear point at which we can stop before applying too much pressure and damaging the tool or the flare. |
| 09:53 | Essentially we're applying force against the resistance until it gets very difficult. |
| 09:59 | Next,we rotate the turret to the second operation if required for our desired flare and complete the second form. |
| 10:06 | From here the flare is finished and with a quick inspection we can tell if it's complete and correct. |
| 10:12 | Again aluminium and copper nickel will be easier to flare than stainless steel and in some cases these flare tools may have hydraulic assistance, which is nice to have for shops doing this work regularly. |
| 10:25 | At this point our line should be finished and we're ready to install so let's summarise the key points. |
| 10:31 | The general process of working with hardlines starts with straightening out the original coil and using some wire to plan out a routing and make a test piece. |
| 10:40 | With the test piece as reference we can create our bends with a tool that helps control the bend radius and cut the part to length with a pipe cutter. |
| 10:49 | From here it's on to flaring the ends, but not before installing the fitting on the line. |
| 10:55 | Flares can require multiple operations depending on the flare type we need for our application. |
