Practical Engine Building: Step 9: Long Block Assembly
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Step 9: Long Block Assembly
38.36
| 00:00 | We've now reached the last part of the actual process of assembling the engine, which of course is assembling our long block, mating the cylinder head to the block and then fitting all of the rest of the componentry around the block. |
| 00:12 | We're going to start with our cylinder head, we've got our engine block here with number one at top dead centre and the very first thing we need to do is make sure that we install these pin dowels , which positively locate the head gasket and the block and the cylinder head, these have been removed so that the block surface can be decked during machining and it's really really important to make sure that we don't forget to reinstall those. |
| 00:41 | We're then going to take a brake clean and a clean rag and we're going to give our deck surface of our block, as well as our cylinder head one final clean, so let's get that done now. |
| 00:56 | Alright, with our head and block now clean, we can fit our comedic head gasket. |
| 01:02 | Again, we want to make sure that our head gasket is perfectly clean before fitting it for the final time, we'll just make sure that our orientation is correct and we can drop that into place over those pin dowels. |
| 01:14 | The next step is to install our ARP head stud kit. |
| 01:18 | And what we're going to do here is just install the studs and just tighten them essentially just a little bit beyond finger tight into the block, no need here to apply any Loctite to these. |
| 01:53 | Alright, now that we've got all of our ARP studs fitted into location and tightened down, we can carefully drop the cylinder head into position over the top of these. |
| 02:02 | So, let's go ahead and get that done now. |
| 02:08 | What we want to do once we've dropped the head into location is just ensure that it is actually sitting properly, it isn't sort of propped up and it is located correctly on those dowels, it is in this case. |
| 02:19 | So, what we can do now is get our ARP washers and nuts and fit those. |
| 02:24 | What we want to do is apply a little bit of the ARP moly lube to the threads of the nuts, as well as to the washers before we put these into location. |
| 02:59 | Alright, now that we've got the head installed, it's time to torque it in place. |
| 03:03 | And here what we want to do is use ARP's recommendations from the instructions and we're going to be using Honda's recommended torque sequence. |
| 03:12 | So, basically we're starting in the middle as we always do and we're working out diagonally and this is going to help reduce any chance of distortion as we torque the head down. |
| 03:21 | The torque spec is 80 foot pound and we're going to do this in three stages. |
| 03:25 | Let's start with 25 foot pound there and we'll do our first stage. |
| 03:37 | The specifics of the first two stages aren't super critical. |
| 03:41 | Generally, we'll go somewhere close to sort of splitting the difference between the three stages of torque, but really it's not that critical, it's the final stage, obviously that really is the most important one. |
| 03:59 | Alright, first stage is complete there, we'll step up now to 60 foot pound. |
| 04:04 | And we can go through and repeat the process for our second stage. |
| 04:15 | Second stage complete, we'll now step up to our final torque spec of 80 foot pound and go through one more time. |
| 04:28 | Alright, our head's torqued down there to our spec of 80 foot pound. |
| 04:32 | As a bit of a sanity check once we've done the last stage, I do like to go through and just check each of the nuts one more time. |
| 04:39 | We shouldn't get any movement out of them before our torque wrench clicks off at 80 foot pound because we need to exceed that in order to overcome the friction between the underside of the nut and the washer. |
| 04:51 | So, let's go through and do one final check. |
| 04:58 | Alright, we've completed torquing the head down, the next step is to begin assembling our cam tray, so that we can start installing our camshafts. |
| 05:07 | Before we can install the rocker shaft assembly we need to start by fitting our lost motion springs into the relevant locations in the cylinder head. |
| 05:15 | Of course, before we do that, these do need to be cleaned down thoroughly. |
| 05:19 | I've already gone ahead and done that so we'll just simply drop those into location. |
| 05:28 | Before we do install our rocker tray, we do need to apply a bead of sealant. |
| 05:33 | Now, the workshop manual actually recommends installing this bead of silicon sealant along the number five tray holder or rocker shaft holder, which sits along this side of the cylinder head. |
| 05:47 | I personally find that deviating here from the factory workshop manual actually works a little bit better and instead of applying that bead of sealant to the rocker shaft holder, I'm actually going to put it directly onto the cylinder head. |
| 05:58 | Reason for this is it gets a little bit messy and a little bit difficult if we're applying that to the rocker shaft holder and then trying to install the rocker shafts as they can go. |
| 06:08 | So, let's clean our component down now with some brake clean and we can get our bead of 3 bond installed. |
| 06:17 | Typically by doing it in this way, sort of a little bit opposite to what the workshop manual intends, we're probably going to end up with our bead of sealant going a little bit further than required, but it's easy enough to clean this off the head surface where it's not required before it actually sets up. |
| 06:35 | Alright, now we can get our rocker shaft assembly. |
| 06:38 | And again in the workshop manual this suggests that we install two bolts front and rear and this will just help hold the rocker shafts in place and located correctly. |
| 06:49 | However, another tip is that when we pick this up off the bench, when it's nice and flat and we've got all of our rockers sort of spread out as they will be on the cylinder head, it's much easier if we apply a reasonable amount of pressure basically forcing the number one and five rocker shaft holders towards each other and that will help keep those rockers essentially where they are. |
| 07:08 | If we don't do that, they're just going to fall vertically down and this makes it quite tricky and fiddly to actually get them all spread out and located correctly on the valves. |
| 07:18 | So, let's grab our rocker shaft assembly now and get it dropped into place. |
| 07:34 | Now, that made most of the job relatively easy, but there's still a little bit of manual manipulation needed just to allow everything to sit exactly where it needs to go. |
| 07:42 | So, we'll just go ahead and do that now. |
| 07:49 | So, now that we've got that into location, everything's sitting in the right spot, what we want to do now is remove these bolts and we'll get those out of the way and we're going to apply our engine assembly lube to our journals for our camshafts as well as on top of our rockers. |
| 08:06 | And as we do this we'll find that there are still a few rockers that probably need to be manipulated by hand into location so we'll go ahead and do that. |
| 08:13 | And then we can drop our cams into the camshaft journal. |
| 08:17 | So, let's get that done now. |
| 08:29 | With the camshafts dropped just loosely into place at this point, we just want to make sure that both of the dowels on the front are approximately pointing up, that'll get them essentially in their correct orientation. |
| 08:39 | Now, going to go ahead and apply some more of our engine assembly lube to the journals before we drop in our upper caps. |
| 08:47 | So, let's get that done now. |
| 08:52 | Our caps of course do need to be cleaned down before installation. |
| 08:55 | And these are numbered with an arrow facing forward so there's no way we can get our orientation incorrect here. |
| 09:02 | So, let's get those fitted into place now. |
| 09:08 | When it comes to installing the bolts for the rocker tray and cams, we do need to be mindful that there are different bolts here. |
| 09:15 | Some of them do have an extended stud on them, which is used for locating and attaching the rocker cover. |
| 09:22 | Again the workshop manual shows you the location for these. |
| 09:25 | So, let's get those into place now. |
| 09:35 | Now, that we've got all of our bolts loosely fitted we can go ahead and start tightening them down. |
| 09:40 | Of course, as usual there is a workshop procedure for this, we need to start in the middle and work our way out. |
| 09:46 | To start with what I'm going to do is just do this loosely by hand just to get everything down into position before I go through and actually torque these to spec. |
| 10:26 | Alright, we've got everything snugged down into place and as you would have seen as I was going through this, it is a bit of an iterative process. |
| 10:33 | What we want to do is pull everything down slowly and evenly. |
| 10:36 | If we went ahead and just tightened down our centre main cap, we'll likely end up doing some damage, we could even snap a camshaft. |
| 10:44 | While the rocker shafts do make it a little bit harder for us to pull it down unevenly, this is still good working practice. |
| 10:51 | Now, that we've got it snugged into place though, we're going to go through and do our final torque step. |
| 10:56 | In this case we want to be torquing down the M8 bolts to a torque of 22 newton metres or 16 foot pounds. |
| 11:02 | So, let's get that done now. |
| 11:09 | Alright, now that we've got everything torqued to spec, we've got to go ahead and clean up the little remaining bits of sealant that we've still got protruding here as I discussed earlier. |
| 11:20 | Just going to use our rag and some brake clean to get that out of the way before it fully sets up. |
| 11:28 | Next, up we can go ahead and fit our sensor plates at the rear of the camshafts as well as our cam drive sprockets on the front. |
| 11:35 | Again, we'll be following workshop manual here for our torque specs. |
| 11:39 | It's worth pointing out that of course if you aren't switching camshafts, this is not going to be necessary, typically we wouldn't be removing the cam pulleys and the sensor plates from the camshafts. |
| 11:50 | In our case, swapping to the BC Racing camshaft, this is obviously a requirement. |
| 11:54 | So, let's start by getting our rear camshaft position sensor plates into location. |
| 11:59 | It's important to mention of course that these are actually marked, so we have an EX marked on our exhaust cam so we can't get these around the wrong way. |
| 12:09 | Let's get them fitted up now. |
| 12:16 | Alright, we've got the sensor plates installed there, obviously just finger tight and we can now torque those to spec. |
| 12:22 | The specification here is 29 foot pound and we do need to be able to hold the camshaft stationary, there are some hexagonal flats here on the camshaft that we can use with an open ended ring spanner in order to support the camshaft so we'll get those torqued now. |
| 12:40 | Alright, now we're going to essentially repeat the process with the cam drive sprockets on the front. |
| 12:45 | So, we'll get those again installed just finger tight at this point and then we'll go through and torque them to spec. |
| 12:57 | Ok, we've got our two cam drive sprockets installed, finger tight at this stage. |
| 13:01 | Obviously, we can see we've replaced our factory exhaust cam sprocket with a vernier adjustable one so that we can correctly degree our cams once we get to that point. |
| 13:12 | In this case the torque spec for the intake cam is 83 foot pound and for the exhaust cam is 53 foot pound so we'll go ahead and get those torqued to spec now. |
| 13:26 | Alright, with our intake cam pulley now torqued to specification, we'll just swap our sockets over for our exhaust cam and that one is 53 foot pound, so we'll just drop that down and get our exhaust cam torqued to specification as well. |
| 13:49 | Alright, we've got both of our cam pulleys now tightened up correctly. |
| 13:53 | We've got one more plug that we need to install before we carry on. |
| 13:57 | We've got a plug here on our front rocker arm support and this is for an oil gallery, it's really important that we reinstall that so let's go ahead and get that fitted now. |
| 14:10 | While I'm talking about oil gallery plugs, we also need to fit the front oil gallery plug and also the rear oil gallery plug, these just blank the main oil gallery through the engine block. |
| 14:20 | This needs to be done before we can install the cam chain, these would have been removed for the machining process by our engine machinist. |
| 14:28 | So, we'll start by taking the front plug and I'm just going to apply a small amount of PTFE Teflon thread sealant to that plug, doesn't really require a huge amount there, just going to help seal that and then we can wind that into place. |
| 14:50 | Likewise the rear main oil gallery plug does have an aluminium sealing washer on it, we want to make sure that that's either in very good condition or preferably replace that and again we can get that fitted, this is going to be a little bit tricky to see as it is hidden by the back of the block, but it's pretty straightforward and pretty clear once you've actually got access to that part of the block so we'll just get that installed and tighten it up now. |
| 15:20 | Now we can begin installing our cam chain and to start with what I'm going to do is install the lower cam drive sprocket. |
| 15:28 | So, this simply slides into location on the crankshaft, making sure that the little dowel on the back of it there locates correctly into the crankshaft. |
| 15:37 | The cam drive sprocket also has a dual purpose in that it also drives the chain for the oil pump. |
| 15:44 | Of course, if you are running a wet sump lubrication system, that would be important, because we do need to install the chain onto that and onto the oil pump before we can install the cam chain because simply it goes behind it. |
| 15:57 | In our case that's not an issue because of course we are running that dry sump system. |
| 16:02 | Alright, so now what we can do is take our cam chain and again it's usually, if these are in good condition there's nothing wrong with reusing the existing cam chain. |
| 16:12 | And what we want to do is find the match mark links and those are going to help us with locating the chain in the correct position. |
| 16:22 | What we can see is we have two coloured links here and these go to our cam sprockets and at the bottom we have a further coloured link here and that aligns on our lower sprocket. |
| 16:36 | In order to just make this a little bit simpler, what I am going to do is just temporarily remove our centre cam chain guide or upper cam chain guide. |
| 16:43 | We can actually get the chain around this , but it's just a little bit easier if we have this out of the way. |
| 16:49 | I know it's a little bit of double handling since we literally only just fitted this, but we will remove this for the moment and get it refitted again once our chain is in position. |
| 17:01 | Before we install our cam chain we need to understand where we're going to be aligning these cam drive sprockets. |
| 17:06 | What we can see is that on the top of each of these sprockets we have a little dimple, those are to align with the two coloured links that I just showed you on the cam chain and then we also have match marks on the centre of the cam wheels, cam sprockets and these are to align with each other, these should be horizontal essentially when they're in the correct location. |
| 17:25 | So, there is a little bit of work involved in getting the cam sprockets aligned correctly and it is a case where sometimes it can be helpful to have a second set of hands just to apply the correct amount of pressure because as we rotate the cam shaft, the valve springs are trying to return the cam sprocket to this neutral position where it is now so let's go ahead and get that cam chain into location. |
| 17:48 | Alright, what we're going to do is take our cam chain and just get it at least approximately installed to the correct location at the moment, it's not going to be possible to get this quite right just yet , but we'll get it approximately there. |
| 18:00 | So, we'll just drape it over our two cam sprockets and then over the bottom cam pulley and now what I want to do is take our cam chain guide and we'll just get that installed initially. |
| 18:20 | Alright, we've got our first chain guide in place, now we want to just get our cam tensioner guide installed loosely. |
| 18:28 | So, we'll take that and this pivots on this upper bolt here and it's always a good idea just to apply a light coat of anti seize on that, because it will move around and that will just prevent any seizing or damage to it. |
| 18:43 | So, let's just get that installed again just loosely at the moment. |
| 18:52 | Alright, we've got that installed, we obviously still have our tensioner to install as well. |
| 18:56 | I'm going to get that sort of just conveniently placed, so I can get to it easily. |
| 19:02 | But we're not going to install that just yet so we'll just get that sitting on our engine stand. |
| 19:07 | Now what we want to do is move our cam sprockets so that we can actually align those three coloured links properly. |
| 19:14 | What we can see is at the moment our intake cam pulley is essentially sitting a little bit too clockwise so we need to move that into place. |
| 19:21 | Want to make sure that this coloured link stays on top of the relevant dimple. |
| 19:25 | This one here on our exhaust cam currently is out one tooth. |
| 19:29 | So, what we want to do is essentially move the intake cam anti clockwise by one tooth, that will allow that to drop into place and then we'll be able to check our alignment of these two horizontal marks. |
| 19:40 | Now, if we just leave everything like that once we've got it into location, as soon as we take tension off our cam sprocket bolt, it's just going to basically spring back to exactly the same position. |
| 19:50 | So, what we need to be able to do is apply some tension to that chain in order to prevent that happening and we're going to be doing this initially manually using the cam tensioner guide and then once that's tensioned appropriately and we're confident that everything's in place, then we can install our cam tensioner itself, the hydraulic tensioner. |
| 20:10 | So, let's go ahead and see if we can get that done. |
| 20:12 | Now, it is always a little bit fiddly, a little bit of care, generally it can be helpful if you've got someone to help and hold these in location while we're doing it. |
| 20:21 | But let's see if we can do this solo. |
| 20:28 | So, what I want to do is make sure that while I'm doing this I've got my lower coloured link in the correct location. |
| 20:34 | So, we can see how much slack is in that chain now and that's simply because we do need to turn this intake cam sprocket anti clockwise as I just mentioned. |
| 20:44 | So, we'll do that. |
| 20:46 | Got that into location now. |
| 20:48 | And now what we want to do is just jump that link as I mentioned, get that into the right spot and we'll apply some tension and we just want to again, as we apply tension here, make sure that our coloured link hasn't jumped on the crank. |
| 21:03 | It hasn't so at this point I'm comfortable that everything's where it needs to be. |
| 21:07 | And what we'll do is we'll just install our little tensioner. |
| 21:11 | Now, in this case our tensioner is actually an aftermarket hybrid racing item, but regardless whether you're using an aftermarket tensioner or the factory one, the process obviously is exactly the same. |
| 21:25 | Now that we have got everything essentially finger tight, we're just going to go through and tighten everything up properly. |
| 21:31 | We'll do one final check and make sure that all of our coloured links are absolutely in the correct spot. |
| 21:36 | When we're comfortable with that we can release our cam tensioner and everything should tension up correctly. |
| 21:43 | Now, it's just a case of removing the little locking pin on our tensioner so let's do that now. |
| 21:51 | And we can see that the tensioner has sprung out, it's tensioned everything, again we've still got our coloured links all in the correct place so we know that at this stage our cam timing is correct. |
| 22:02 | Now, I'll just also mention the cam chain guides there, I have chosen to replace these. |
| 22:08 | This isn't always essential, it's really a case of just assessing the amount of wear that we do have on our existing cam chain guides. |
| 22:15 | Quite often these will be absolutely fine and we can just reuse them, but just for the sake of completeness we have replaced these now, it's a relatively small expense in the complete cost of rebuilding this engine. |
| 22:26 | Now, that we've got our cams timed up, we've got one more task to do and that is to set our valve lash. |
| 22:32 | Mechanical valve lash adjustment on the K20, relatively easy to complete with just accessing the little locking nuts and adjustment screw there on each of the rocker arms. |
| 22:44 | The adjustment recommendation again from the workshop manual, 8 to 10 thou on the intake and 10 to 12 thou on the exhaust so we're going to go ahead and do that. |
| 22:54 | In order to do this of course we are also going to need to be able to turn the engine over and for the moment all I'm going to do is just install our crank bolt just as we had before and that'll allow us to turn this over just using our ratchet. |
| 23:11 | Given that at the moment we are on TDC number one cylinder, we can set and adjust our intake and our exhaust valve lash sitting here with the cams in this location. |
| 23:21 | So, we'll start here of course on our intake side, we're aiming for 8 thou and what we want to do is lift the rocker up and slide the little filler blade here between the tip of the valve and the rocker assembly. |
| 23:36 | And in this case we've actually got a good amount of tension straight away. |
| 23:39 | So, that's actually pretty close to where we want to be, in fact I would say absolutely spot on our 8 thou clearance. |
| 23:45 | However, the process of doing this is to simply grab a 10mm spanner or alternatively the correct special service tool , which we don't have and most of you watching probably won't have either. |
| 23:57 | Flat blade screwdriver and what we can do is just loosen the locking nut off here and we'll just adjust this little screw thread here until we've got just the right amount of tension on our filler blade, which we've got about there. |
| 24:13 | We'll hold the screwdriver in place so that we don't over tighten this and then tighten up our locking nut again, checking that our filler blade is still nice and tight. |
| 24:25 | We want to be able to move that through with just a little bit of friction and if you don't know what that should feel like, if you get a stack of magazines, maybe about 8 magazines and you slide the filler blade between two of the magazines in the middle of that stack, that's about the amount of tension you want to feel on that. |
| 24:42 | So, we've done our first adjustment there, I'm going to go through and speed this process up. |
| 24:49 | What we're going to do is basically work in firing order , which is one three four two. |
| 24:52 | So, basically it'll go from cylinder one to cylinder three, we'll obviously rotate the cylinder to get this on TDC firing, then we'll move onto four and then we'll move onto two. |
| 25:49 | Before we go any further, let's reinstall our upper cam chain guide before that gets forgotten. |
| 25:57 | And this is obviously just going to be a repeat of what we did earlier, remembering that the torque for these is 16 foot pound. |
| 26:08 | Our next task is to fit our front cover and that obviously has to be sealed to the engine as well. |
| 26:14 | Before we go ahead and fit the front cover, it's really important though to make sure that we fit our trigger wheel. |
| 26:19 | If we don't get this, then we're going to have to remove the front cover. |
| 26:22 | The trigger disc just slides onto the crankshaft and it does have its own key that slides into the keyway. |
| 26:29 | Importantly, we can see that one side here is marked, it says outside, obviously this has to face the outside of the engine, so we'll just slide that into place now on the crankshaft. |
| 26:39 | And now we can take our front cover and we want to make sure of course that this has been thoroughly cleaned. |
| 26:46 | We haven't even actually pressed in a brand new front crank seal. |
| 26:50 | All of our surfaces here have been thoroughly cleaned down from the sealant that was there as well as the mating surface of course of the block and we want to go ahead and just give both of those surfaces one final clean with some brake clean. |
| 27:03 | So, I'll get that done now. |
| 27:11 | With our surfaces cleaned down we can now apply our sealant. |
| 27:14 | The shop manual shows you exactly where this bead of sealant needs to be applied so we'll go ahead and get that in place now. |
| 27:28 | Alright, we've got our bead of sealant applied, now we can see exactly where we've got this. |
| 27:33 | And essentially what we need to understand here is we want to always go on the inside of these holes, that's going to prevent the oil leaking into the bolt hole if we went on the other side. |
| 27:43 | So, we've got to a rubber gasket here and we want to make sure that either we're using a gasket, an existing gasket that's in really good condition or alternatively if that's a little hard and brittle, it's always a good idea to replace that. |
| 27:56 | So, now we're going to slide this into location and with the K20, this isn't actually doweled to the front of the engine. |
| 28:03 | So, we do need to be a little bit mindful when we're doing this so that we don't end up getting it in the wrong place and sort of smear our sealant out of place. |
| 28:10 | So, what we're going to do is take the two bottom bolts for our front cover, and these can be noted, because they have a sort of a machine shank on them there. |
| 28:22 | So, those are our two bottom ones, I'm going to just slide those into location. |
| 28:26 | And I'm going to use those to essentially help guide me into place so I don't smear that silicone around so let's get everything started now. |
| 28:36 | Now, that we've got the front cover started, we'll just go through and install the remaining bolts and tighten them down. |
| 29:04 | While we're working on the front cover, we're also going to reinstall the little blanking plate that gives access to the cam chain tensioner. |
| 29:11 | This also requires a bead of sealant on it before we install it, so let's go ahead and get that done now. |
| 29:23 | Before our sealant sets up, it's also a good idea to remove the little bit of sealant that's always going to squeeze out between the block and the front cover. |
| 29:31 | If we don't do this, we can do it later once it's dry with a razor blade, but it's easy to do now with a rag and some brake clean, if we don't do this, it can end up with our rocker cover gasket leaking so let's get that cleaned up. |
| 29:46 | While we're working on the front of the engine, I'm also going to install our crank position sensor and our variable cam control solenoid. |
| 30:02 | Next, we'll reinstall our front engine mount. |
| 30:09 | While we're bolting on some of the accessories, I'm just going to move a little bit out of order here, we'll reinstall our two cam position sensors on the back of the cylinder head, we've also got a blanking plate that's going to sit on the intake side of the head and we can install our VTEC solenoid and heat shield on the exhaust side. |
| 30:28 | So, we've got all of that bolted up now. |
| 30:52 | We've got a few more ancillary parts that I'm going to also fit, we've got a small water pipe, which bolts to the block here, we've also got a blanking plug for our water gallery there and I'm also going to install our coolant temperature sensor on the back of the cylinder head. |
| 31:08 | So, let's get all of those parts fitted up. |
| 31:10 | I will point out that the blanking plug for our water gallery is sealed with an aluminium sealing washer, so we want to make sure that's either in really good condition or in really bad condition as we're installing this. |
| 31:34 | While I haven't installed it, there is also a location here on the front of the block for the factory oil pressure switch, so this would be a good time if you're retaining that factory oil pressure switch to refit that, it's on a tapered thread and does need a thread sealant paste in order to prevent an oil leak. |
| 31:50 | In our case I'm not reinstalling this, because instead of the oil pressure switch, we're using an aftermarket oil pressure sensor, which we'll install at a later point. |
| 31:58 | The next part we're going to install is our front crank pulley. |
| 32:01 | And if you are sticking with a factory crank pulley, this is a relatively straightforward job other than the torque required. |
| 32:08 | This is because the crank pulley is actually quite a simple slide fit onto the snout of the crankshaft. |
| 32:14 | We're using an aftermarket ATI damper and this is an actual press fit so this is a little bit trickier. |
| 32:21 | There are special tools to install and remove these onto the crankshaft. |
| 32:25 | However, with a little care, making sure everything is nice and square, we can also install this just by using the factory crank bolt. |
| 32:33 | The first part here though is to install the woodruff key into the keyway in the crankshaft. |
| 32:39 | You'll find that once this is installed, it does actually protrude a little way out of the crankshaft and that is normal. |
| 32:45 | And that will actually help us in our case guide the ATI damper into place. |
| 32:50 | So, I'm going to grab that damper now and our crank bolt and we'll get this started. |
| 32:55 | So, I'm going to start by aligning the keyway with the woodruff key and then just get it started on the snout of the crank with the bolt. |
| 33:08 | Alright, we've got everything started here. |
| 33:10 | It's important just to make sure that the pulley is being pulled onto the crankshaft square. |
| 33:16 | There is the large diameter washer underneath the head of that bolt so that will actually perform the task of squaring things up. |
| 33:22 | But it's important just to watch carefully and make sure that it is being pulled into place squarely, otherwise we could end up damaging the pulley or the crankshaft itself. |
| 33:32 | So, let's get that tightened into place now. |
| 33:39 | OK we've got the crank pulley pulled down onto the crankshaft now. |
| 33:43 | We'll feel when that stops, when it bottoms out on the crankshaft and that's when it's into its correct location. |
| 33:49 | Now, obviously we also need to torque this to spec. |
| 33:52 | However, this is going to be much easier to do once we've got the flywheel installed, which we can't do while it's on the engine stand. |
| 33:59 | With the flywheel installed we can easily lock up the flywheel and stop it rotating using the ring gear. |
| 34:05 | So, for the moment I'm not going to torque this bolt , but clearly it's really important that we don't forget this. |
| 34:10 | You can either make a note somewhere on the engine to help you avoid forgetting this, or alternatively in my case what I'm going to do is actually remove that bolt from the crankshaft again, this will just make it very clear that I haven't torqued it up and avoid any possible mistakes later on when we're actually installing the engine. |
| 34:27 | So, let's get that removed now. |
| 34:33 | Now, we're essentially finished on the top of the engine so we can go ahead and install the rocker cover. |
| 34:38 | Generally, I'd always recommend replacing the gaskets for the rocker cover and the spark plug tubes when we're installing it just to avoid the potential for oil leaks. |
| 34:46 | These gaskets do get brittle over time with the heat and then they can not seal as well as they should so let's get our rocker cover installed now. |
| 35:05 | With our rocker cover now refitted, we're going to flip the engine over and we'll begin assembling our sump into location. |
| 35:12 | Ok, we've got the engine rotated over, we've got our dry sump sump sitting here ready to go on. |
| 35:19 | However, before we can fit the sump, you'll recall that earlier in the process I mentioned there was a couple of holes that we needed to drill out and we need to blank these with an eighth NPT pressure plug, otherwise we're going to essentially have a massive oil leak from our oil gallery. |
| 35:34 | So, I've got our two pressure plugs here and just an aluminium plug and these need to be installed with a little bit of Teflon thread paste or thread sealant on them so let's just go ahead and do that now. |
| 35:51 | Now, that we've got our pressure plugs installed I'm just going to take our rag and a little bit of brake clean and we'll just remove the excess thread paste that's still left on those exposed threads. |
| 36:03 | While we are doing this, it is also a good opportunity to give the sump mating surfaces here a bit of a clean down, just making sure there's no oil or any silicon sealant or anything that could affect our sump seal. |
| 36:16 | Now, typically when we're reinstalling the sump, if it's a factory sump, we will of course be using our sealant to make sure we've got no leaks there. |
| 36:24 | Our aftermarket dry sump system does actually seal with an O ring, you can see the black O ring here and that makes our life just a little bit easier, this is quite common on racing components, it just makes them much easier to service when we're taking them on and off frequently. |
| 36:40 | So, in this case all we need to do is now drop our sump into place and we can tighten up the bolts around the perimeter, so let's get that done. |
| 37:02 | Alright, we've got our sump installed and tightened down so we're getting very close to the finish line here with our engine. |
| 37:09 | We do have the rear main seal still to install , but again just like tightening up our front crank bolt, this is going to be much easier to do once we've got the engine off the stand. |
| 37:19 | Our access around the crank seal is quite limited while it's on the stand, so I will be performing this once we've got the engine off the stand ready to install into the car, but obviously important to mention that rear crank seal should be replaced as part of our engine rebuild. |
| 37:34 | I've got one last component that we're going to install, which is another part of our dry sump system for our basically replacing where the oil filter goes on the block. |
| 37:43 | So, we'll flip our engine back over, we'll get that installed and finish the job off. |
| 37:47 | Alright, with our engine flipped back over, this is the little plate that we're going to be fitting in place of the oil filter and this is again just part of our dry sump system because the scavenge pump is going to be pumping the oil out of the engine straight to our reservoir so this is where the oil returns back in and it's an AN fitting, which makes our life easy for motorsport plumbing so let's get that fitted into location. |
| 38:13 | So, this completes the assembly stage of our K20. |
| 38:18 | Of course, we do still have the run in stage once the engine is fitted into the car. |
| 38:23 | You can check back to the body of the course to see the procedure that we recommend for this. |
| 38:28 | And if you do have any further questions, please ask them in the forum and I'll be happy to answer them there. |
