Road Tuning: Setting Base Ignition Timing - Post Startup
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Setting Base Ignition Timing - Post Startup
01.47
| 00:00 | Getting the base timing close at cranking speed is enough to get the engine running, but we want to make sure, once the engine's running, that the timing is absolutely perfect. |
| 00:09 | I address this section after I've got the engine running and idling by itself, and once I know the mixtures are pretty close. |
| 00:16 | Once you're at this point, you can come back and check and set the base timing accurately. |
| 00:22 | The procedure's the same as before, only this time the engine will be running. |
| 00:27 | Depending on the trigger set-up, you may find that, at low idle speed, the ignition timing moves around a few degrees. |
| 00:34 | This is normal, and it's not something to worry about. |
| 00:37 | If you increase the engine RPM to around 1,500, you should find that the timing becomes much smoother. |
| 00:43 | This is where we want to hold the engine speed while we set the timing. |
| 00:48 | Follow the same procedure we just went through, and adjust the timing offset until the timing at the crankshaft matches what the laptop's displaying. |
| 00:57 | The other test I perform, at this stage, is to increase the engine RPM up to around 3,000/4,000, and watch to make sure the ignition timing stays stable. |
| 01:07 | If a reluctor crank sensor's been wired with the wrong polarity, you will see the timing drift significantly as the RPM rises, even though the ignition and advance is fixed in the ECU. |
| 01:18 | The Link G4+ has a unique feature, called Ignition Delay, which helps to keep the timing stable throughout the RPM range. |
| 01:26 | Normally, we start with this set to zero, and make the adjustments we have just discussed. |
| 01:31 | We can then increase the RPM to around 5,000, and adjust the ignition delay until the timing remains stable. |
| 01:39 | Once the timing is set, you can exit out of the base timing mode, and you're ready to continue. |
