BMW 240i braking performance

Can anyone recommend a good pad and disc combination for BMW 240i track going car that works well. Seems to be endless problems with brake judder and lack of retardation on these cars.

No specific suggestions, but you may find this of interest - https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Brake_pads

I have no specific experience with that vehicle, but stock pads are generally not up to the task of track use.

They overheat, melt, transfer material to the rotor, and then you feel judder/shuddering while braking as the remaining pads hits the deposits as the rotor continues to rotate. They also aren't designed for repeated aggressive stops.

You'll need to replace both pads and rotors, on all 4 corners to resolve the judder. In my experience casual track day use does not require fancy rotors for most applications, but great pads and fluid are vital.

I use Hawk DTC 80 pads a lot, but the ideal pad per application varies and I'm unsure if they have your fitment. PFC is another good brand for example.

Be sure to upgrade front AND rear pads, and keep in mind if you're not fully defeating stability control, that's ok and we want you to be safe, but the rear brakes are going to get really hot and need cooling just like the fronts.

Since you got pads hot enough to melt them, good fluid is in order. I use Castrol SRF, but there are other options people like as well.

Pad recommendations are useful, many thanks. I guess we are pushing fairly hard on track. The rear upgrade is something to consider as well.

Forgot, there are two main causes of "brake judder".

The first is usually put down as "warped discs", and this can happen with some cheaper discs as there may be variation in hardness and composition that causes uneven heating and distortion. You can do a simple check with a DTI on the friction surface for axial run-out. The usual remedy, if within tolerance, is to grind, or machine, the surfaces true.

The second is material transfer from the pad to the disc, and this can cause variations in the μ (mu, or co-efficient of friction) at different points around the disc, which gives an unpleasant shudder - usually caused by holding the foot brake applied when the discs and pads are hot, which results in this. It can be reduced, or prevented, by cooling the brakes on the in-lap, avoiding holding the brakes on in pit stops (if practical), and turning of the engine and leaving the vehicle in gear and/or using wheel chocks instead of applying the hand-brake.

Less common, with floating brake discs, is debris or damage preventing the disc from floating on its carrier/bell.

I don't know if this applies, as it's a road car issue, where I've twice had bad shudder that wasn't actually due to the brakes being a problem - they were due to a 'rubber' bush failing in the suspension. As they came on suddenly, virtually overnight, I surmise their progressive failure just hit the right rebound frequency to trigger the violent positive feedback.

Useful feedback thank you