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No spark on ignition event 3 & 6 ecumaster

EFI Tuning Fundamentals

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I have a 2jz na-t project

With a trigger kit from supravworld with a 36-2 crank gear and intake cam vr sensor, with the r35 coils

I have made a custom wiring harness, and I have tried starting it a couple of times.

But the car wont run, it has no spark on ignition event 3 and 6. Coil 3 & 4 do not have spark, when I put a sparkplug in the coil while cranking.

But when I test output it sparks, and when I swap ignition output 5 & 3, coil 3 works and coil 5 wont fire.

So it doest seem to have 6 ignition outputs but only 4. but I've selected that it is a 6 cilinder.

This is probably not enough information, but maybe someone has an idea for this problem?

Attached Files

When cranking, does that "No Sync" change to "Sync"? Do you get an RPM signal shown on the laptop screen?

Yes, The signal first says 'synchronizing' on cranking, and after 1 or 2 seconds it says 'synchronised'

This is how cranking looks:

Attached Files

Have you verified that 12V power to the coils (and injectors, fuel pump, etc) remains active while cranking? It's easy to sometimes pick up "Accessory" power that turns off while cranking, but is ON when in the run state.

have you taken a trigger scope?

I've seen an issue like this where the gap on the 36-2 wheel landed on an ignition event. swapping polarity of the CAM sensor was the solve

The 12 volt power drops down to around 10 volts while cranking. but the other coils still spark with 10 volts, so i don't think that is the problem.

And yes, i've taken a trigger scope, i've attached it to this message.

But how can changing the polarity, change the spot where it sparks on the rotations?

I've read that connecting the polarity the other way around causes Drift, but only when the engine is running, in higher rpm?

Attached Files

The 12 volt power drops down to around 10 volts while cranking. but the other coils still spark with 10 volts, so i don't think that is the problem.

And yes, i've taken a trigger scope, i've attached it to this message.

But how can changing the polarity, change the spot where it sparks on the rotations?

I've read that connecting the polarity the other way around causes Drift, but only when the engine is running, in higher rpm?

Attached Files

Thanks for the replies,

I've changed the trigger tooth to tooth 9 instead of 10, with 10 degrees more trigger angle.

Now the timing is spot on, and the car fired up immediately

Running on 65 degrees trigger angle now, that should not be a problem?

We usually reply within 12hrs (often sooner)

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