Dry sump

Hello guys,

I watched your webinar about dry sump and now concerning of putting dry sump on my M50B28 turbo build daily driven about 500-600hp. But I would like to discuss few things Im no pretty sure about:

1) cold starts - how it is with cold starts? Considering if the car dont run 1day, 1week or 1 month? Should I program my ecu to ignite after few rotation so there is oil pressure before actual ignition?

2) tank location - i know i can place it "where ever" but is it actually true? Like is it difference between if I place it close to engine and feed line is shorter than if I place it in the trunk of the car? How does this effect feeding and cold start?

3) turbo scavenge - can I actually connect my turbo oil drain to in of the scavenge section on the pump? Or it is better to drain it to the block a let pump scavenges the oil pan?

4) oil air separator - i know if i will get good tank for example peterson - there are buffles and air separator inside the tank so i dont actually need the separate oil/air separator?

5) tank capacity - I read somewhere that the tank should be the twice of the engine oil capacity? That means if I have stock 6l oil in engine I should get like 12l tank? Should I use a lot more oil or if the engine require 6l i can just use 6l with the dry sump?

6)oil heater - is it necessary? for daily driven?

7) sealing the engine for vacuum - if the pump gonna make vacuum I should close the valve cover vent? Or should i just connect the valve cover vent to the top of the tank? Then the tank has to breath as well so can I connect tank breather infront of the turbo - so the turbo would vent the tank - same style as in oem engine configuration that the crankcase vent is connecter in front of the turbo/charger? Should I connect a catch tank between tank and turbo/atmosphere?

- I know there should be vacuum gauge for the crankcase in that case right? Or is it not necessary?

I hope I did not forget anything and really thank you for your help and answer.

-Dom

Hi Domenik, please see below:

1. I've had no issue with gaining oil pressure on cold starts. There is a constant head of oil above the pump inlet and it's going to remain primed after your initial startup so in this respect it's no different to a conventional pump.

2. A shorter line from the tank to the pump can provide less restriction to sucking the oil through the lines and may show a slight increase in oil pressure compared to a boot-mounted tank. I'd favour location and weight distribution when making your decision.

3. You can but it's not my recommendation unless you have multiple scavenge stages (4 or more). I'd return the turbo drain to the sump and scavenge from there.

4. No, the separation is done by the tank design.

5. You want the oil level in the tank to sit approximately 2/3 of the height of the tank so double the oil capacity is probably a little overkill.

6. Not necessary but a consideration if you're running a heavy weight oil. No different though for wet vs dry sump.

7. With a turbo engine you're unlikely to maintain a vacuum in the crank case under high boost/rpm so I wouldn't seal the engine. You're best to monitor the crank case pressure so you know exactly what's going on. If you are able to maintain a vacuum then there is an advantage to doing so.