Bulletproofing oil/water temps - what to do?

Apologies if this is not the right sub-forum as I didn't find another sub-forum that fit the criteria better.

I own a BMW 1M that is becoming almost like a dedicated HPDE / Touge / Clubsport car. It has a primary radiator behind the FMIC in the center of the front bumper along with a small auxiliary secondary radiator on the "side hole" of the front bumper. The primary radiator has already been upgraded to a larger CSF unit.

The primary oil cooler is inside the second "side hole" of the front bumper. The oil cooler has already been upgraded to a larger one with a custom shroud directing air into the oil cooler. Behind the oil cooler I've also cut out the fender liner so the air can easily escape.

On ambient temps of 34C (peak summer) I'm seeing a stable 100-105C water temp but 125-130C oil temps in a 30 minute session. The car is not hitting any sort of limp modes but at the same time I'm doing cool down laps after every 2 laps after seeing oil temps rise above 120C. I would love to be able to run the full 30 minute session without worrying about oil temps. The goal would be a stable 100C water temp and under 120C oil temps.

A few directions I can go here and I'd like to ask experienced track guys here for some advice. I can 1) add a second oil cooler (many do this) in the secondary radiator location but I'd have to remove the secondary radiator. 2) Upgrade the secondary radiator 3) Try to lower the combustion temperatures directly by using a water-meth injection kit either through port injection or through the charge pipes (intake).

The easiest for me would actually be option 3. Does anyone know if option 3 actually works to lower oil temperatures assuming I do not turn up the boost and make more power? Option 1 is a lot of hassle, and option 2 seems to be too indirect to solve the problem of lower oil temps.

Thanks!

We added a pair of oil coolers across the upper grill for someone tracking theirs around a decade ago and that worked out.

Hood venting helps as well: https://racelouvers.com/bmw-1-series-scca-t2-t3-stu-center-hood-louvers/

The way you've done it is tricky because you need lower pressure on the back of the cooler, but the wheelhouse is generally high pressure, if I'm understanding where you have your oil cooler. You could stick a fan pack on it if there's room.

Water/meth injection (not running the car on methanol) does not significantly change your oil temp on track in my experience, so I don't believe that will solve your concern.

Mike has pretty much nailed it.

Airflow is critical for any liquid>air heat exchanger to work, and working on this can make a big difference. I have seen some people spend a lot of time and effort to end up with compromised systems.

I'm not that familiar with the vehicle, so it would help a lot if you posted some pictures of your cooling setups, including the FMIC, in case that's compromising more than expected?