Honda Bseries

Just finished a B16A with forged internals 12.5 c.r with cams , port and polish head and 550cc Grams injectors . I am using a Link G4+ plug n play ECU . I uploaded the base map , changed the dead time to the recommended . The car starts but runs extremely rich , according to the LM-2 , I have on idle 9.3 , I have tried to adjust through the main fuel table but doesn't help . It still shows 9.3 .

I tried also to change from the Fuel Main----Master Fuel from 22ms to 13ms as well as set open loop table to ON from OFFF

Is there something that I am missing ?

I'd suggest checking that the parameter 'Minimum effective pulse width' is set correctly, or at the very least realistic. If in doubt set this to 0 and see if that changes things.You can also log your actual injector pulse width and watch what the ECU is supplying. With the exception of the minimum injector pulse width parameter being too high, you should see the injector pulse width change when you adjust the master fuel parameter.

If everything appears to be correctly tracking your changes then I'd be suspicious of the actual wideband. Does the engine note change when you make significant changes to the fuelling?

Which sensors are you using in your LM2? I've killed a sensor in minutes with a first start being too rich on an LSU4.2. If it's the LSU4.9 they are a lot tougher.

The minimum effective pulse width would be my guess, been caught out with that when they first introduced it as there's values in the table.

If you still have issues after Andre and Chris' advice, feel free to chuck up your tune file or a data log.

Other thing you can do is open your run time value screen (F12 or R)

Go to your fuel table and ensure there is no crazy trims going on etc. Then go back to your fuel main and adjust the MS number, watch your Inj PW and ensure it is moving while you decrease your MS and it doesn't stop a X Inj PW indicating an issue somewhere else (like minimum PW Andre mentioned)

Thank you guys for your input . I changed the ms in the master fuel from 22 to 6ms and the car run amazing , slight adjustment to the main fuel table and had 14AFR . With slight adding or removing the AFR changes accordingly . But the issue that I am having now is I have an idle 1500RPM and as I am removing fuel the idle drops but do not have a smooth idle at 1000RPM , its a little bit rough and the AFR clims to 16.5/17.1 . Once I add fuel and have an AFR of 14.7 or 13.5 and so on the idle is nice and smooth but 1500RPM .

Thanks again

your high idle can be caused by a few things, initially timing. You're wanting to have your idle afr at approx 14.7-15. Try initially retarding your ignition timing in the idle areas and also check you've not got any air leaks or your throttle is jacked open slightly too much.

Once you've got your idle in the rough area that you want you can activate the idle ignition control which will automatically adjust the ignition values to smooth out your idle

I am using a Skunk2 Ultra Series Intake and Skunk2 throttle body which eliminates the IACV . But I assume the will be some compensation through the ecu . At the moment I couldn't test playing around with the ignition as the fpr although new was playing up and have to replace it .

I would also like to ask the following . I have installed on the ecu the output harness and want to put the wideband and some other gauges and other functions . I do understand that I can either use a usual ground on the chassis or on the output harness where the ground is but when I use the volt what option do I choose in the ecu menu ?

I mean I go to option Auxiliary outputs and then ?

When it comes to the wideband, you want to ground it to wherever the ecu is grounded to. Then run its 0-5v output wire to one of your analog voltage inputs on the aux harness. Once youve done this, you go to your analog inputs in the menu on the left, and then select wideband 1. You will also need to tell it what table to use to define its transfer function. So, for example, if you have an AEM wideband, 0v=10, and 5v=20 approximately. you can select a table that one of the other inputs isnt using, and then define that in the table. If you need any help let us know (=

Thank you all again for your inputs .

As I mentioned I managed to get the car up and running . The issue that I am having is although it started worked for approx. 20min with a Master Fuel 6ms and if I remember well in the main fuel table I had approx. 16 . I had to alter it as it was way too rich and I have ended up regardless of the Master Fuel ms to have in the main fuel table on idle an approx. 4-6 to have a fuel ratio of 14.7 . I have changed the sensor of my lm-2 calibrated it and seems to be working correctly and I have done the according math as shown in the webinars in regards of the resolution . I have set to 0 all fuel corrections and compensations as well as set in the Fuel menu the AFR table to OFF .

But I am having the following 2 other issues . The 1st one is once I try to accelerate it turns off . I try to accelerate on idle and it also does it sometimes . But I assume I might be throwing too much fuel . But I as I am not sure for what is happening for the above issue , I would like your opinions .

As well as while I have set my fuel table with MGP but once I start the car in the cursor of the ECU is at 0 . My table goes from top to bottom from -100 to 0 . Shouldn't the cursor be on the top ? As well as on the ignition table it at 100 . Ignition map is set with MAP and goes from 0 (top) to 240 bottom .

Thank you again .

Screen shot your fuel table for us. Also, i like to set my master pulse width so that my idle area is around 15-20. This makes my top end of my map around 75-80 which is good. So, set your idle area to around 15 in the main fuel map, and then change your master pulsewidth until you get back to your desired afr (maybe run 14:1 for now until you get your table kind of extrapolated and linearized)

If i were to be setting up a map with NO knowledge of what the engine wants,. i would have my idle as above, set up, and then add 2 per 500 rpm across the board (easiest way is to this, is to set where you would be at the end of the map. select the cells in that row, and do a horizontal interpolation across the rpm range) so, if at idle, youre 20 in the main fuel map, set 50 on the other side of the map, and horizontal inerpolate across that load cell. Hope that makes sense.

Here is my fuel map for my 13b-rew. Its a bit rough still, but working on it, lol. And before anybody says anything, the big jump mid map is because i didnt set up my injector staging properly (oops). It still runs and performs perfectly. Im getting bigger secondaries this winter, and then i will rework the whole map with a new MAP sensor as well (gm 3 bar)

Thanks again for the help . Still having issues with it but I am starting to have some progress . It seems to be having an issue with my wiring loom so I am trying to figure out what is happening . I will be doing some more tests and post up results . Thank you again .

Car is running now well as I have fixed all the main wires . The cabin loom was causing the main issues . I am having steady AFR and everything seems to be working correctly , no engine light , proper response .

In terms of tuning it now , I was wondering since the Link G4+ knock block has 2 sensors that I can use and from what I have heard Honda's due to VTEC are a little bit tricky and most people use a knock sensor on the manifold should I use both 1 on the manifold and 1 on the engine block to get better results or no ?

It never hurts to have it more central, but when i was tuning the one i just did (b18c GSR turbo) i found that i couldnt really find any spots that i could reach reasonable on the centre, so i used the intake manifold bolt, and i could pick up even very slight det, it worked very well.

Vtec isnt too tricky. Disable it, tune the non vtec tables for fuel and timing, then enable vtec, and tune the vtec tables, then decide on your engagement point. Thats how i did it anyways. worked out well. 305 whp on 17 psi (small t3)

I will be using a Link G4+ Plug n Play which doesn't have vtec tables similar to the Hondata . We will have the engagement point kinda high as this car will be an all around car and with the short gear ratio it won't be really ideal on highways . Thanks again for the input . Will update soon with results etc.

I have been trying to find a proper space to use the knock sensor on this car as it is using a Skunks Ultra Manifold and I cannot place anywhere the knock sensor on the manifold . If I take of the oem and use my wideband and then put my oem back will that be ok ?