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A while ago I put up this post asking some traction control questions: https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/traction-control-fuel-cut-or-ignition-cut
Since then I have had time to play around with the traction control on Haltechs Elite 2500 and honestly I am beyond disappointed in their designated part of the software to do this. The run cylinder kill and its incredible jerky and the PID is messed up....which is an entirely different story.
So to fix my traction issues I have used a generic correction table with boost reduction and timing retardation based on tire slip %
Which can be seen live here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slFQd2cSDQY&feature=youtu.be
and a better resolution of the table in the attached file.
My question:
Will this amount of ignition retard be safe for my car? I am running low 20's in the ignition area of the map where the power is being pulled and its only removing about 10 degrees for a very short amount of time.
Thanks!
You will begin generating heat but as it's only for short periods and your still firing btdc so it will be fine. If you liken it to the type of heat generated during 2 step launch control the amount of extra heat you'll be generating is nothing
It all comes down to how much/how often you're expecting to rely on the traction control. If it's infrequent or relatively infrequent then I wouldn't be concerned. If you're finding the traction control is active a high proportion of the time you're under full throttle then it could be detrimental.
Often ignition retard on it's own won't be enough to eliminate wheelspin so you need to resort to ignition/fuel cutting as well. If you're managing ok with just the ignition retard and boost reduction then you're possibly not running into massive wheelspin anyway so on this basis it's unlikely you'll have any trouble.
I haven't tested the traction control on the Elite yet so can't comment. I have found the PID algorithms Haltech use to be a little ambiguous in terms of their units though.
I've also yet to mess with the Haltech Elite traction control but I have messed with the Link G4 setup and its fantastic. It works well using a fuel cut, ignition retard and i've even gone as far as setting a virtual aux so that when it senses slip above a certain percent and rpm above a certain rpm it will even default to a secondary DBW table that commands less throttle vs your requested valve to keep the slip down around 10-11%. In a 905 whp supra with R888 tires on it we can dead hook in 2nd gear at 30 psi with the help of the traction control strategy listed above.
That's a pretty smart strategy with your use of the dbw throttle tables 90dsmturbo! Unfortunately our testing on the 350Z is somewhat limited since the thing has so little power :(
There are one or two ways you can fix that problem, Andre ;)
This isn't lost on me Lith :)