Link Knockblock Knock Sensor Placement 4G63

Just wondering if I can use the front engine hoist mount (picture attached) or if there isn't enough surface area there? Could I also just attach it to one of the intake manifold bolts? or would that dull the noise that its picking up? I just want somewhere that's not a nightmare to get to.

Anyone?

You'll just have to try it and share what you learn.

I would be VERY surprised if that did any good - with distance, damping of the signal from the engine mass, and the additional valvetrain 'noise' the vehicle may be well into light detonation/pre-ignition without triggering a warning signal. I'd consider running it without (assuming a proper tune) rather than run the risk of thinking things were fine when they were anything but.

Why not just use the factory location - they'll have spent the development time and money to figure out the best place? You may even find it is compatible with the ECU and it's harness.

Thanks for the replay's gentleman.

I have the factory sensor in the factory location and will be logging it in the ECU. I was just curious about a secondary sensor placement for the link G4+ knock block so I could actually listen for knock. I'm not keen on removing the factory knock sensor to replace it with only audio knock detection as I plan on logging the knock sensor output it as well.

I haven't used the knock block yet, so I was looking for the best position to put it in. Since the 4G is a fairly common platform I was hoping someone would have some experience with sensor placement for the knock ears.

I would use a longer bolt and stack both sensors in the OEM location.

Hi Rob, tuned a few of these with knock block and the inlet manifold works fine. Careful if on petrol, they take very little timing but it is pretty easy to hear.

Great to hear! thanks. Since I'm not running air conditioning I have some free holes near the bottom of the block (not as Ideal since its lower). However, if the intake manifold works than that might be a better bet.

I appreciate the feedback.

I've used that location on the head and don't recommend it. Yes it's easy to access, but the quality of the signal suffers. There's a nice threaded hole on the front of the block behind the turbo which works well. It's just not that user friendly to access when the turbo is hot.

Had this headache recently myself. The stock knock sensor on the 4G63 is M10 x 1.25 (Metric fine). Turns out that a helicoil repair tap for M8 course/ standard (M8 x 1.25) is the M10 x 1.25.... throw a helicoil in and you have a lovely M8 bolt hole in the stock position.