mustang gt 2006 manual - help needed

hello guys....

i just bought HP tuner VCM suite to fix my car, im still new in tuning world so any help will be appreciated. my car was running okay till i decided to clean my injectors [img="https://www.hptuners.com/forum/images/smilies/doh.gif and after doing that my car start running really poorly when i push the engine on the road. the engine sound changed and i think my injectors are not working good [url=https://www.hptuners.com/forum/images/smilies/crazy.gif"]https://www.hptuners.com/forum/images/smilies/crazy.gif"[/url] alt=""]i have 2006 ford mustang gt manual whiteout any engine mods only the cats are removed.can any one take a look on my log and tune file and help me identifying the problem. i see my LTFT & STFT are off for both B1 & B2, also the max value for MAF sensor is only around 22 lb/min is it normal??how can i decide if i have an injector problem?

thanks

tune and log files

it's probably a vacuum leak. You need to do a smoke test or spray starter fluid in the engine bay to check for leaks.

This might sound silly, but how do you do a smoke test or use lighter fluid to detect leaks?

You can go right to YouTube and search, there are a few videos. "How to find vacuum leaks"

For an easy way to check... I just bought carb cleaner and i will spray it to the areas i suspect and i will check the engine rpm, STFT and O2 sensors if any of them will respond.

I will do that and update the thread...

Are you going lean at high load?

Checking for vacuum leaks is best done at idle when the vacuum is reasonably high. I use a brake clean product and spray it at the lower injector seals at idle and if there is a leak you'll hear the engine note change as well as the idle speed.

so i was out of town all that time ...finally i'm back :hi: and this happened.

so i got me a carburator cleaner and started spraying it around the intake and i was observing the STFT and found 2 air leakages point :yay:. one at the far end of the intake driver side between the CMC plates and the manifold the other one was a bad injector O-ring in the passenger side injectors.

i opened the intake manifold cleaned it ...changed all the injector O-rings, removed the CMC plates (made my own CMC delete plates:cheers::cool:) and put every thing back together and WALLLA no air leaks any more:burnout:. now my LTFT & STFT are close to 0 (not 0 ... i know it should be close and its hard to tune it to 0 ...am i right ??:confused:)

i tuned for the CMC delete according to this thread :

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?20810-How-To-CMCV-IMRC-Deletion-amp-Tune-Modification-Information

now im phasing another issue.. around 3500 rpm to 4500 rpm i always have KR around 3 to 4 degrees and when this happens the engine stall and stay on the same RPM even if i have the throttle fully opened.

i tried to multiply the MBT spark and Border line spark tables to 0.9 to remove around 4 degrees from the spark advance but it stayed the same or even worse.

this is my tune and scanner files below please check it and till me what you think ..... i will be fixing AEM widband O2 sensor by tomorrow and i will update you with the scanner file.

tune and scanner files after CMC delete

Have you logged the actual delivered ignition advance in the area where knock is occurring and confirmed that it is changing when you adjust the calibration? As a side note on this, when you want to adjust the ignition advance this is done in the borderline knock table - The MBT timing table should remain stock and this is used for the PCM's torque modelling.

i changed the MBT table by copying the MBT table IMRC open and added it to base MBT table and then zeroed MBT tables IMRC closed and opened as i removed the CMC plates this is the only change that i did to the MBT tables

but finally i think i know whats happening... check the below photos and log files.

i think my injectors are faulty as you can see in below photos the engine is turning very lean when it changes to open loop operation and the ECM is requesting a richer AFR.

photo number 1 (and log 1)was loged from driver side bank, photo number 2 (and log 2) was loged from driver side bank but after i changed the injectors of the two banks together.

my fuel pressure is okay in both logs and i think the the injector signal from the ECM is also okay as when i changed the injectors between the two banks the injector behavior changed in log 2 you can see that i have some injectors leaking heavily and this is not showing in log 1.

what do you guys think ....am i right in this analysis.

if i'm going to change the injectors i'm thinking about buying 42Lb ford racing injectors. i don't have any modification on the intake or exhaust. can i tune this injectors for my current engine setup so in the future if i do any work on the engine i will not need to change the injectors again.

thanks for your help and sorry that i take too long to reply but i'm a bit busy this days and i don't got a lot of time to work on my car.

log files 1 & 2