Need help creating a base tune after cams and injectors

Hello guys,will be installing a set of brian crower 272 cams and fic 950cc injectors to my evo 8 in 2 days.Im aware of raising the idle timing and the idle itself a little bit and i can set up the injector scaling and latency.Its my first time tuning im only concerned about how can i manage a base map that would allow me to go wot so i can log the car safely and go from there should i rich the map above 100 load cells and retard timing 2 to 3 degrees and go from there?or will i be too rich like this?

Hello, how much boost are you running?

hello Fotis im running a Manual boost controller im currently at 24 psi.I can decrease boost if needed to start tuning the cams and injectors.

Set cams to 0 degrees and i'd suggest min rpm to 1000

Start with the base map , unplug injectors and check your triggers -timing.Then plug in the injectors and give it a start.If it won't start check your spark plugs if they are flooding or dry (depending on that you will rich or lean the mixture.) If it starts let it warm up and set afr to stoic and timing about 11-13 degrees you should be okay for IDLE .For WOT i'd say go even more retarded just to be safe .Would be better to use a dyno to tune the timing.As for the afr after atmospheric pressure you will be aiming richer .

Also update your injector size and dead times

Yeah i just made the changes to the dead time and scalings which are published on evo forums so i will chase down my fuel trims until i get them as close to 0 as possible.i already have my idle at 14 degrees because im running a bigger throttle body(not sure if thats the cause of the high deg numbers bought the car like this)So i dont need to raise my idle ignition map.and as for my idle i already made a file with a higher idle so i think im good to go i just need to lower timing on boost load areas as you mentioned more then 3 deg and richen the fuel map more,am i correct ?

Thank you a lot man really appreciate it

No problem at all , Yes you should retard more than 3 degree your boost area to be safe and start tuning your AFR.WOT I've seen 11:1 at 23psi on pump gas what type of fuel are you using? After you are done with fuel map you can go to ignition map and start tuning one step at a time.

im running 98 Ron fuel.im currently at 11.7 afr at 24 psi of boost is that not in safe region i have 1-2 counts of knock occasionnaly around 3500-4500 rpm

What's the AFR and ignition timing at 3500-4500 what ecu are using?

I attached my log if you dont mind having a look.the high knock counts at 7500 7600 rpm are due to hitting rev limiter

First of all you have boost leak you can see that an WOT the LOAD increases-decreases and goes like that.After that you are running lean on revlimit and at the point were you have 1 count of knock try adding more fuel or retard 1-2 degrees .I'd suggest you to check your engine you are having boost leak.

I've highlighted the areas of knock .

Will try that mate will do a boost leak test before installing new mods and i will change my walbro 255 as preventive maintenance as i feel its going bad sometimes car cuts fuel while cruising and sometimes cuts out on wot

Thanks a lot for your time

I would consider adding a fuel pressure sensor if you are going to throw parts at a car. At least toss some loot at a great tuning and diagnostic tool before installing a new fuel pump. So many "tuned" around cars running a muck.

Fuel pumps do not just cut out. You may jump spark from a coil boot here and there, be loosing a coil, have a poor connection on your pump wiring and probably a 100 other possibilities. Without data though, specifically the number 1 thing most tuners find faulty being fuel pressure, you may rebuild the whole car before you find the random issue.

Like said above, step 1 is handle the boost leaks. The most annoying tuning problem of them all! For christs sakes please perform a pressure test up to the point of your target boost at a minimum. Don't just "LOOK".

Post or pm your actual file for a look over if you like. With inj data being correct and good idle multipliers you should not have to raise the idle. That's usually a cover up for poor tuning or installation.

One thing to note is frequently center line on BC cams is quite off and you will struggle getting good vacuum at idle if you just toss them in. A manageable sized degree wheel for in car use is IMO a must when using several of the aftermarket cam options out there.

hello william,i have posted a while back a thread about my problems with the car but didnt updated as the problems come and go,the car have an inttermittent unstable idle afr's and idle misfire at throttle tip in this problem occurs for 2 or 3 weeks or so and cures itself when the car cuts fuel for a second,everything goes back to normal stable idle afrs and good wot pulls,i will try the boost leak test while looking at my boost gauge because the last time i did a leak test there was none and problem was there,didnt post logs because didnt had evoscan back then and now waiting for the problem to reoccur to log the car and post my trims here.Would really want to fix the problem first but its annoying because its not there all the time.Other thing that i noticed is that when i have the problem. At idle i cant go wot the car pops as if starving for fuel and rpm wont increase if i go wot lineary it goes fine.when its running fine the car goes wot on idle without problem.

Anything you suggest doing other then boost leak test,or i should chase the leak first then post a log

i posted my file here with idle and scaling and latencies adjusted didnt touch the ignition and fuel map yet

Thank you for your help

file not allowed to be uploaded here and cant seem to find where i can send a pm on here ,can you give me your email to send it ?

tuning@turtletooned.com

i would certainly be looking for the issue you are having before any tuning is done. Otherwise a short block will probably be in your future and that sucks when it’s unexpected.

I havent looked at your logs as I’ve been driving since I read your post. I am assuming you have the wideband wired in and logging? As I mentioned a 150psi sensor for fuel pressure is almost a must have imo. Especially if you are able to set safeties from it. Otherwise even just for logging is a crucial datapoint for several reasons. Especially on a saddle tank fuel system where uncontrollable pressure can exist.

Im assuming your using a tactrix, ecuflash and evoscan?

Can you post what available logging parameters you have access to so we can make a list of items to log? If you are using a patch of some sort you may have some available to you that other patches do not.

I am using tehphra v7 ecuflash evoscan and a tactrix cable right,im logging afr via serial port connection and i have my omni 4 bar map sensor scaled to log it also so basically i can log everything needed whatever you need me to log just tell me,

I will email you my file in few hours once i get home.

Im doing a boost leak test tonight so ill post my results if i can find anything

i posted a log for my afr's at idle at then end of the log i went Wot and there it happens afr go completly lean and car wants to stall as if there is no fuel going in the engine rpm doesnt climb.and Afr's arent stable they go rich on idle then back to normal every once in a while...this is becoming really annoying.Plus im just back from doing a boost leak test,didnt find any except a small leak from one of the oil catch cans i have which is really small to make anything