Non synthetic run-in oil question

After a fresh rebuild, what brand / spec oil should I use on a performance turbo engine until the initial ring seating has taken place. I am aware of the running in procedure but I worry about filling in a mineral based oil which may not be good enough and eventually end up with engine damage because of it.

Ive always run a normal/cheap mineral based oil for running in engines. I also always use a zinc additive in the oil. The zinc has many benefits . A quick google will tell you.

I always run cheap oil with zinc for 15 mins during the idle, to get the map set up, check for leaks, etc. After 15 mins or so of run time, i shut it down, drain the oil, put new oil in with zinc additive (higher quality oil but still not the best). I cut the old filter apart with a filter cutter, and examine the media for any big chunks of metal, warning signs, etc. After that is done, i get it on the dyno so we can load it up, etc.. Or, if its just a rebuild and its all stock ecu, etc.... find some hills, load it up the hill, engine brake down the hill. Try not to rev it too much, but definitely apply load (high gear, full throttle)

Look up "motoman" on google, he has a wicked break in procedure.

A cheap mineral based oil is all you need. Use the same grade that you intend to run with a synthetic if possible. I use mineral oil for the first 200 km where possible and then swap to a synthetic. With modern rings and honing techniques most of the break in will occur in the first 20 km of use so it's critical to get some light load on the engine as quickly as possible. I don't allow the engine to idle at operating temperature for any length of time when the engine is new as this can result in the bores becoming glazed.