×

Sale ends todayGet 30% off any course (excluding packages)

Ends in --- --- ---

Rear Main Seal!

General Tuning Discussion

Forum Posts

Courses

Blog

Tech Articles

Discuss all things tuning in this section. News, products, problems and results. 

= Resolved threads

Author
1469 Views

Hello Mattias. You were right! The cap is leaking. So annoying. My problem is I cant get hold of the GM silicone. I do have Loctite black RTV rated as meets or exceeds oem standards...….What do you think about using the Loctite brand?

This is the leak....used baby powder to see it.

Attached Files

Hi,

Loctite will be fine as long as it's the same type. Just add it as I described in an earlier reply. Add enough for it to overflow where you now see the leaks.

If you plan to go up in power and rebuild make sure you get the block pinned, mine cracked from long term fatigue. It was only under 1 bar boost during break in. It was obvious that the bores was distorted around the water channels after I hooned the bores but I took a chance that it would be fine for a while longer but no such luck.

If you have deep pockets you can buy my engine parts that are left over (450hp and pulls fully to 7700rpm ;), I'm swapping in an AJ-V6 in to mine :)

This is a "built" engine, forged rods etc. ARP studs, the only thing I haven't done yet is get the block wedged. Is that what you are referring to? According to U.K tuners the blocks should be ok to around 550hp standard. My block was re-bored ect when I built it. Im just finishing off the gearbox now.

Thanks for your help. Top man.

Yes, that is what I mean. People often talk only in terms of power and not long term power that we usually want for a street/trackday car. My engine did however survive for 9 yrs with around 400hp the last 3 yrs. But it would have lived on if I had wedged the block. When it went I had actually lowered the C/R to around 8.3:1 to add a little more safety for high boost but still it cracked the wall at 1bar boost and it was the biggest water opening that also had the biggest signs of distortion after hooning.

Only other issue is the cracks in the cylinder head but those are pretty much standard on these and mine never went deep enough to cause a leak from the water jacket.

Elring dirko ht is perfect for girdles 315+ degrees they do different versions

Scholar engines near me always use it

I work for Scania trucks and we use a very similar Swedish brand sealent , used to seal rear covers under high stress and temperature

Hi Mattias and Liam. I made a small video showing the leak fix. Have a look if ya want. Thanks for your help guys. https://youtu.be/2aEZUu5Fjy4

We usually reply within 12hrs (often sooner)

Need Help?

Need help choosing a course?

Experiencing website difficulties?

Or need to contact us for any other reason?