Toyota 86 idle rich, dies after warming up, then can be started without issue

I have a Toyota 86 that is stage 1 IAG block with a 2867R Gen 2 turbo and JDL kit. The title says it all. Looking for the best way to finding the correct table to fix the issue.

Thanks all

What ECU are you using? Often times there can be post-start tables that trim something, and if one axis is run time (or engine cycles) you need to make sure the table ends with 0 trim (or 100% whatever is no trim).

I believe the answer is the stock ecu. I will have a look around some more to find out

Dalton,

Since you mentioned you aren't sure what ECU the car is running, would it be fair to say someone else is tuning the car and you're hoping to help find a solution? Do you have a datalog you can provide of this occurring so we can see what's going on?

Did the car always do this since the turbo was fitted, or did it run properly for a period of time with the turbo kit and then start this behavior later?

What you're describing can be caused by many things and we'd really need more info to help narrow it down, but to give one example for now if it's a MAF based tune and you have a blow off valve fitted, that would be one common cause of the exact behavior you've described. That's not necessarily the cause in your case though and you may have a speed density conversion, but we'd need more info to best help you out.

Mike, I wasn't sure if he wanted to have like the special number or simply OEM vs Standalone. I am helping someone tune it, but the OG tune was not solid and a ton of the connections to WG and such were wrong and plumbed weird. The car would die without giving it throttle and ran super lean whenever the person drove it. On top of that there was no boost control so the car would use 12 PSI 1 day and the next be at 25 PSI. The car is a MAF based car only. I was thinking on making it a hybrid but was reviewing the videos and some of the BRZ tuning pages from ecutek that explained some parameters that I have never seen. Ill see what I can do for the logs today.

Gotcha. On a MAF only tune, if the vehicle has a bypass valve, stalling at idle often happens when the valve opens. This causes the engine to ingest a significant portion of its total airmass from there, after the MAF, rather than drawing it through the air intake past the MAF, so the ECU sees less air, provides less fuel than appropriate for the total actual air mass getting to the engine, and it stalls out.

It's possible there are other tune issues, but sudden stalling makes me think of that.

Another common issue on MAF based turbo kits in that chassis is overheating of the MAF sensor. Sometimes while driving it can get heat soaked enough to become unpredictable in its readings. MAF location is a big factor. Anything you can do to protect it from getting heat soaked is advised. This sometimes also causes a condition where the vehicle will cold start and hot restart great, but if you get it hot, turn it off, then let it sit for 25-50 minutes or so on a hot day and try to restart it, sometimes the MAF reading is wonky enough from heat soak that the engine won't start well. You can see the odd reading in logs to confirm whether that's happening.