VE table from a "tuner"

Greetings

I been driving my "professionally" tuned evo for a bit now, and there are some smaller issues so I decided to start investigating.

I there were some immediate idle issues that I was able to fix, and some cold start that I am still dealing with, but the VE table has me stumped! The car runs very well, made 445 hp to the hubs (2.3 stroker, HKS gt3 turbo, 25psi boost), but looking at the VE table, it looks like the car should BARELY run.

In all fairness, the car was tuned in Japan, by a reputable shop that deals with EVO's but they speak ZERO English, and Haltech is only in English. They asked me to switch to Link, but the Elite came with the car, so I wasn't about to switch over.

Should I look at getting the car completely retuned?

Thanks in advance..

Phil

Phil,

Non drive by wire Evos don't idle perfect in my opinion, so that part doesn't surprise me and I wouldn't say it calls the whole tune into question.

Next I don't know the situation, but if a tuner only has a car for one day, then they don't have an opportunity to test and adjust cold start. Perhaps given the opportunity they'd be happy to do so either remotely via logs or in person?

The VE table looks like there may be room for improvement, but ultimately since you say it "runs very well", then perhaps the areas you encounter in your driving are well tuned already.

If air/fuel ratio is appropriate and on target, but you're concerned about engine safety, listening to the engine for knock would be a good next step. HPA has some great material on this here: https://www.hpacademy.com/dashboard/courses/efi-tuning-fundamentals/

From what I see that's the way to get to your target AF ratio without tweaking too much with sub maps. I've seen it before in stock tunes where instead of adjusting MAF and supplementary fuel maps properly people just change main fuel map to get actual af mixture where they want it to be -usualy it's done to save time or when tuner isn't very familiar with software. It might work on racing car (where your ultimate goal is to drive almost only at WOT) but i wouldn't do it to a daily driven car.

Figure I would update here.

I posted in a Haltech Facebook group, and the map got SLAUGHTERED. a nice member offered up to retune the car remotely, and the difference is night and day.

Basic things, like engine displacement were off, causing the whole rest of the map to be out of whack. but its all better now!

Thanks again for the assistance.