Which PDM/PMU to go for?

After a seach I didn't really come up with much, few from many years ago when there were many less options and prices were higher.

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Which PDM/PMU to for? What do people recommend these days?

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I'm rebuilding my RB26 260Z after a full bare metal restoration, the main engine functions are in a modern mini fusebox, but the chassis harness is still running glass fuse fuse box. Since I want to re do and tidy up the wiring. It makes sense to simplify it, and while a PDM/PMU is quite expensive, it will save a lot of time and complexity with the wiring.

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I run a link G4+ Xtreme ECU. But I am not bothered which brand of PDM I use, just want the best one for my application. I would like a decent amount of outputs and one that will not limit me to using their ECU. Being an older ECU it does have limited CAN options, not sure if this is a problem.

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I've looked at the Link Razor and the ECUMaster PMU 16 (I like the look of the Autosport version, but doubt It makes sense for the extra cost) Also the 24 is nice as I'd have plenty of channels and could probably do away with all fuses and relays.

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I didn't really look at Motec as usually their products are out my price range.

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So my question is. Which PMU/PDM is best to go for.

Its primarily a road car

Really only required as a modern replacement for an old style fuse box.

I am not fussed about data logging capability as I doubt I'd need it much

Need enough channels to do away with as many fuse/relays setups as possible.

Pretty standard setup for a fuel injection engine. Only extras for the chassis other than basic are heated windscreen and heated drivers seat.

Don't have a crazy budget, allowing up to around £1000, ideally less.

We've been using ECU Master PMU 24 in some rally cars with success so far.

The only issue we have had so far in one of the units we have installed was the analog inputs stopped working. We didn't had time to fix the issue yet because the car is running in a championship (put all the stuff that we need wired direclty into the spare input connector that goes directly to the ProTune PR8 ECU, made a custom can to broadcast what I need to the PDU and it's all working fine, when we have some time we will send the PDM to ECU Master).

We have worked with a few motec pdm and never had a single failure. But there are newer PDMs with some better specs / features (like the AIM which have half bridge outputs, and the ECU Master that allows us to sum up to 3 outputs, have pwm output....).

The user interface on ECU Master software is also very intuitive.

Thanks for the reply.

There so many nice PMU's around now. I was looking at Syvtecs and Life Racing this evening. Very nice, but very outside my budget. With several recommendations for the ECU master PDMs and their great value its looking the most tempting at the moment.

I'm still reading up on PDM/PMU knowledge so still have much to learn. Is there any issue using regular switches with them? Its going in a Datsun and I want to keep using my stalk controls and dashboard buttons, these will not be CAN through a keypad or the ECU, though my ECU controlled engine outputs can be done using CAN. I am assuming that is what the analog inputs are for? (Hopefully your analog input failure is a rare one off)

Once I confirm that the PMU route is suitable for my need and I go down that route I will most likely take the course for that on here.

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Noticed that the Syvecs PDU34A and the Life Racing Version are identical, wonder who manufactures these units.

No problems at all using hardwired switches (on/off, 0-5v and so on).

Just take care because the number of inputs in the ECU Master PMU 24 is limited (some of them are either inputs or outputs).

What you can do is using a ECU Master CAN Switchboard to wire the switches into it, and transmit it status via CAN.

I have done that with a Porsche 911 CUP switch panel as you can see in the video bellow:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK25jjco58o

Ps.: AFAIK Life Racing manufactures Syvecs PMUs (just like LINK is selling AIM dashloggers under their brand)

Like Haruki, I've had success with ECUMaster PDMs, minus analog inputs on the non autosport units, and do use and suggest them otherwise.

Motec PDM is also reliable, but software is less capable and the lack of PWM is a shortcoming.

My experience with Link PDM hardware was not positive and I cannot recommend, though I certainly like the ECUs.

haruki.tutia

Thanks a lot for that info, I had not realized that. Very helpful

So, just to make sure that I am on the right page. Instead of loosing 8 outputs due to the slots being used for analogue inputs I can instead use something like this: https://rrrshop.co.uk/products/encased-ecumaster-can-switch-board-i-o-expander and wire 8 analogue inputs to this which can then be connected to the PDM using one of the 2 can ports thus keeping many more outputs channels available. And since it has two can inputs I can still have my ECU connected for the inputs that can be sent from that via CAN.

Pity it is another thing to buy, but it wouldn't be of great use if I were to loose 8 outputs.

Fantastic work on that switch panel by the way.

Mike - Thanks for the input. Looks likely I'll go with the PDM24 with the addition of a CAN switchboard. Motec PDM30 is out my budget anyway.

Op, I'm in the same shoes.. although I had already purchased my ecu, pdm.. I went with ecumaster black and their pmu16... going in my 73 240z with 2jz swap. Street daily vehicle with no heat or ac though.. and I'm going to use the pmu16 to control everything on the chassy side... I was going to start a post also. I had bought the pmu16 before the pmu24 came out. Are you going to be using the pdm for the chassy portion only?

Before reading up I was planning to just remove the original fuse box for a PDM16 and therefore just for the chassis, since my Autosport spec wiring harness uses a modern mini bussman fuse/relay box.

However with the availability of a decent priced but well functioning 24 channel PDM I am currently planning to try and run nearly everything though it. Especially since the most gain of function from the advanced features of a PDM are most beneficial to the engine systems rather than things like tail lights and head lights.

When I built my car none of this would be an option for me, but with the car apart I have the chance to upgrade some things and getting a really clean chassis wiring setup is one of them.

Hope the build goes well. I love mine and to me its perfect with the 500hp from the RB26, I think setting mine up for low boost threshold, minimum turbo lag, maximum response and great mid range are why its so pleasing to drive compared to see I have been around who went for silly power.

You can totally do that. Wire the switches directly to the ECU master can switch board. It will help reduce wire lenghts as well.

Thanks. The video is in brazilian portuguese. When I have some time (which is difficult) I will try to make some subtitles.

I recommend the Link Razor PDM. Has by far most advanced functions like PID controller, math channels and can do 10khz 100 Amps+ all day without overheating. And i like wirering gets simpler, if you have several units for a car.

A few of the early Link PDM head a few isuess, which was mainly do to chipset shortage. In the meantime they switched to better ones an problems are solved.

They run now black month any you can get buddle deal +20% discount if you need several units.

This is kind of a different topic, but perhaps someone knows.

Running a link G4+ Xtreme ECU, from around 2014, it has OBDII enabled and I believe a can port can be installed. Can anyone confirm if I should be able to link this with the PDM24?

Since the PDM does not have 24 inputs separate from the outputs its not as useful as it would be otherwise as really it only has 16 outputs if you use 16 inputs. So I need to utilise both CAN ports if possible. So hopefully all ECU inputs can be via CAN and all 8 other non ecu related inputs can utilize the other CAN input using the CANBUS Board.

I have never needed as many inputs as outputs. You often end up ganging outputs to get the required current high current devices like fans. What kind of car are you trying to configure -- how many actual switched controlled inputs to you have? I suspect many will be logic controlled (ie. fuel pumps turned on with CAN messages from the ECU, Coolant fans automatically turning on based on temperature sent from the ECU -- or a fan request from the ECU).

Keypads are another neat way to add switch inputs to PDMs -- just power & 2 CAN wires makes for a lot less wiring for a bunch of buttons.

Of course, with CAN you can limit the actual inputs needed. So I'm trying to ascertain that I will actually be able make my G4+ communicate with CAN, I believe its quite a basic setup on it, as around the time I bought it, it wasn't as common on aftermarket ECU's as it is now.

A keypad is a no go, its not right for the car. Its not a race car and keeping the interior largely period looking is priority coupled with the ergonomics of using the combination switches on the wheel stalks. If I'm not being stupid however, I can have the same function as a keypad using an ECU Master CAN switchboard.

Without using CAN I would require 22 inputs as a minimum if I want to avoid using any fuses and relays.

Another Option

Has anyone experience with Hardware Electronics? PDM 25

https://www.ptmotorsportelectrics.com/collections/hardwire-electronics/products/hardwire-electronics-pdm-25

It has 16 Analogue inputs and 25 outputs. For a great price.

To answer your earlier post about CAN inputs - the G4+ and PMU has good capability from that point of view. In the ECU you can send "virtual auxes" to the PMU for stuff like turning on the fuel pump or fans. Anything connected to the ECU inputs like switches or sensors can also be sent to the PMU via CAN to control outputs. Stuff like keypad button status can be sent from the PMU to the ecu for stuff like enabling launch control or similar.

The main CAN limitation with G4+ that may be relevant to PDM integration is some PWM functions cant be sent over CAN - for example if you wanted to control fan speed that is set up as a GP PWM table in the ecu, there is no way to send the duty cycle value. The fan can still be PWM controlled, but you need to do the PWM logic in the PDM rather than the ecu.

ecumaster /end thread lol

I've used most of whats on the market, with the notable exception of Life and Haltech. Ecumaster is my choice even over motec, has PWM and the software is just better.

The only 3 PDM's i'll even consider installing now are ecumaster, Motec and AIM.

Hardwire's feel open source compared to others on the market; software is buggy, complex and full of walls. Its also in a plastic case...

Link's PDM needs the V3 firmware/software to be released. great hardware but not great software. very complex to use and understand, CAN very limited. and you need like 3 to run a car.

Haltech only works with Haltech

Racepak Smartwire was good 15 years ago when it was new, has not changed much since

AEM's PDU's are also only for AEM's VCU and Dash's

AIM are great for the money, software is pretty slow and heavy but works. haven't heard much reliability issues since after their original batch, units I've installed has all worked fine.

Motec as usual has the most reliable hardware out there. I've seen units run at their amp limit for 4+ seasons of racing and never miss a beat. software isn't sexy but works well. Only lacks PWM capability.

Ecumaster has the best software, CAN is extremely flexible, the programming has few limitations and they are constantly improving and adding new features. I've had one hardware failure in 4 years of working with them. Has PWM, some models have logging

Adam@Link_ECU- Thanks for the info. I don't see any issue controlling fan speed from the PDM instead of the ECU. So long as the main outputs can be sent via only CAN wiring then that leaves me with more input availability for chassis harness inputs. I really only get 8 analogue inputs without loosing outputs.

Teeson111 - Thanks for the helpful opinions.

I think I shall go with the ECUMaster PDM24. If I can make it work with the ECU CAN from that side and use an ECUMaster CAN Switchboard to input the majority of the chassis inputs then that should leave me with enough inputs available for whatever is left without starting to sacrifice outputs for inputs then it should suit my build well.

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I hope I don't regret going this way, its not going to be cheap, but I do believe it will reduce the mass of wiring compared to a conventional fuse/relay setup. With the whole car getting a full ground up restoration and all else being new it doesn't make sense to leave the wiring. Its still got a glass fuse box and the power actually still runs through the wheel combination switches, even for things like the headlights. So you can imagine the upgrade it will be to have them only as switches. Will extend the life of the switch and should mean much brighter headlights.

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I am looking forward to doing the PDM course. But first I am going over all the wiring courses again.