Which PDM/PMU to go for?

After a seach I didn't really come up with much, few from many years ago when there were many less options and prices were higher.

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Which PDM/PMU to for? What do people recommend these days?

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I'm rebuilding my RB26 260Z after a full bare metal restoration, the main engine functions are in a modern mini fusebox, but the chassis harness is still running glass fuse fuse box. Since I want to re do and tidy up the wiring. It makes sense to simplify it, and while a PDM/PMU is quite expensive, it will save a lot of time and complexity with the wiring.

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I run a link G4+ Xtreme ECU. But I am not bothered which brand of PDM I use, just want the best one for my application. I would like a decent amount of outputs and one that will not limit me to using their ECU. Being an older ECU it does have limited CAN options, not sure if this is a problem.

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I've looked at the Link Razor and the ECUMaster PMU 16 (I like the look of the Autosport version, but doubt It makes sense for the extra cost) Also the 24 is nice as I'd have plenty of channels and could probably do away with all fuses and relays.

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I didn't really look at Motec as usually their products are out my price range.

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So my question is. Which PMU/PDM is best to go for.

Its primarily a road car

Really only required as a modern replacement for an old style fuse box.

I am not fussed about data logging capability as I doubt I'd need it much

Need enough channels to do away with as many fuse/relays setups as possible.

Pretty standard setup for a fuel injection engine. Only extras for the chassis other than basic are heated windscreen and heated drivers seat.

Don't have a crazy budget, allowing up to around £1000, ideally less.

We've been using ECU Master PMU 24 in some rally cars with success so far.

The only issue we have had so far in one of the units we have installed was the analog inputs stopped working. We didn't had time to fix the issue yet because the car is running in a championship (put all the stuff that we need wired direclty into the spare input connector that goes directly to the ProTune PR8 ECU, made a custom can to broadcast what I need to the PDU and it's all working fine, when we have some time we will send the PDM to ECU Master).

We have worked with a few motec pdm and never had a single failure. But there are newer PDMs with some better specs / features (like the AIM which have half bridge outputs, and the ECU Master that allows us to sum up to 3 outputs, have pwm output....).

The user interface on ECU Master software is also very intuitive.

Thanks for the reply.

There so many nice PMU's around now. I was looking at Syvtecs and Life Racing this evening. Very nice, but very outside my budget. With several recommendations for the ECU master PDMs and their great value its looking the most tempting at the moment.

I'm still reading up on PDM/PMU knowledge so still have much to learn. Is there any issue using regular switches with them? Its going in a Datsun and I want to keep using my stalk controls and dashboard buttons, these will not be CAN through a keypad or the ECU, though my ECU controlled engine outputs can be done using CAN. I am assuming that is what the analog inputs are for? (Hopefully your analog input failure is a rare one off)

Once I confirm that the PMU route is suitable for my need and I go down that route I will most likely take the course for that on here.

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Noticed that the Syvecs PDU34A and the Life Racing Version are identical, wonder who manufactures these units.

No problems at all using hardwired switches (on/off, 0-5v and so on).

Just take care because the number of inputs in the ECU Master PMU 24 is limited (some of them are either inputs or outputs).

What you can do is using a ECU Master CAN Switchboard to wire the switches into it, and transmit it status via CAN.

I have done that with a Porsche 911 CUP switch panel as you can see in the video bellow:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK25jjco58o

Ps.: AFAIK Life Racing manufactures Syvecs PMUs (just like LINK is selling AIM dashloggers under their brand)

Like Haruki, I've had success with ECUMaster PDMs, minus analog inputs on the non autosport units, and do use and suggest them otherwise.

Motec PDM is also reliable, but software is less capable and the lack of PWM is a shortcoming.

My experience with Link PDM hardware was not positive and I cannot recommend, though I certainly like the ECUs.

haruki.tutia

Thanks a lot for that info, I had not realized that. Very helpful

So, just to make sure that I am on the right page. Instead of loosing 8 outputs due to the slots being used for analogue inputs I can instead use something like this: https://rrrshop.co.uk/products/encased-ecumaster-can-switch-board-i-o-expander and wire 8 analogue inputs to this which can then be connected to the PDM using one of the 2 can ports thus keeping many more outputs channels available. And since it has two can inputs I can still have my ECU connected for the inputs that can be sent from that via CAN.

Pity it is another thing to buy, but it wouldn't be of great use if I were to loose 8 outputs.

Fantastic work on that switch panel by the way.

Mike - Thanks for the input. Looks likely I'll go with the PDM24 with the addition of a CAN switchboard. Motec PDM30 is out my budget anyway.

Op, I'm in the same shoes.. although I had already purchased my ecu, pdm.. I went with ecumaster black and their pmu16... going in my 73 240z with 2jz swap. Street daily vehicle with no heat or ac though.. and I'm going to use the pmu16 to control everything on the chassy side... I was going to start a post also. I had bought the pmu16 before the pmu24 came out. Are you going to be using the pdm for the chassy portion only?

Before reading up I was planning to just remove the original fuse box for a PDM16 and therefore just for the chassis, since my Autosport spec wiring harness uses a modern mini bussman fuse/relay box.

However with the availability of a decent priced but well functioning 24 channel PDM I am currently planning to try and run nearly everything though it. Especially since the most gain of function from the advanced features of a PDM are most beneficial to the engine systems rather than things like tail lights and head lights.

When I built my car none of this would be an option for me, but with the car apart I have the chance to upgrade some things and getting a really clean chassis wiring setup is one of them.

Hope the build goes well. I love mine and to me its perfect with the 500hp from the RB26, I think setting mine up for low boost threshold, minimum turbo lag, maximum response and great mid range are why its so pleasing to drive compared to see I have been around who went for silly power.

You can totally do that. Wire the switches directly to the ECU master can switch board. It will help reduce wire lenghts as well.

Thanks. The video is in brazilian portuguese. When I have some time (which is difficult) I will try to make some subtitles.

I recommend the Link Razor PDM. Has by far most advanced functions like PID controller, math channels and can do 10khz 100 Amps+ all day without overheating. And i like wirering gets simpler, if you have several units for a car.

A few of the early Link PDM head a few isuess, which was mainly do to chipset shortage. In the meantime they switched to better ones an problems are solved.

They run now black month any you can get buddle deal +20% discount if you need several units.