Nissan S chassis with heavy engine

hello everybody

I have a nissan 200sx s13 and I would like to make a swap 2jz or v8 turbo ls block of iron. first of all know that this is a street project and my main concern is the weight of the engine on the front axles of my car as well as the balance between the front and the back of the car.

According to your experience and your knowledge on the Nissan S chassis, are you advising me against its two swaps or it can be corrected with a good suspension?

Weight is weight, best suspension can do is partially avoid the worse of it.

If I were you, I'd have a good think avout exactly what you want from the vehicle, what you don't want, and what you don't care about. With enough money you can fit almost anything into anything, but there will always be compromises.

There are a couple of other points, depending on what country you're in, you may run into legal problems getting it certified, you may have insurance hassles, A/C may be wanted, etc.

There is also a potential problem with LHD or RHD, as the steering and some other accessories will be differently located. American and European kits will normally be LHD, Japanese, Australian, NZ and British will normally be RHD.

I would strongly recommend looking for an aluminium block LS, as it will be significantly lighter.

If you are determined to do it, it seems to be a relatively effective LS swap and there are kits for it from companies like SIKKY https://www.sikky.com/product-category/lsx-swap-kits/nissan-swap-kits/240sx-s13-kits/ - and at various levels of parts and ease of assembly. Just google "nissan LS kits". Remember, CHECK DRIVE SIDE!

Same things apply with the JZ2 swap, there are quite a few kits for that too - you can check that side out but remember the RHD/LHD thing.

Weight is a significant consideration for any car and adding excess weight on the front axle line has the potential to adversely affect the handling and balance. Locally there is a very competitive S15 running a 700 hp turbo 2JZ though so it's not to say that it's a bad combination. As Gord mentioned, if you decide to go the LS route then the alloy block would be a better option in terms of weight than the iron block variant.

hello sorry for the delay, thank you both for your response gordon for all his details on the choice of kits to perform a swap. Andre thank you for sharing your experience your example on the s15 swap 2jz, that reassures me. I will apologize your advice to both of you on the choice of an aluminum block.

there is only 80lb of difference between the block of iron and the block of aluminum you find that it is sufficient to pose problem?

for example there is this Italian builder who build a chassis S with an iron block Ls. I'm not trying to copy but I tell myself that making a drift car is more demanding than a street car, and yet he does it anyway .... what do you two think?

http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/02/when-v8-swap-just-isnt-enough-brill-steel-s14/

i have built s13 with ls2 and there is alot other issues you are gonna run into than just weight,

first of all with a bigger engine you are gonna need a bigger radiator not just a aluminum one the stock size is 26x19.5x1'' i think and the aftermarket is 26x19.5x2'' and its not enough my coolant reach 250f after one lap in a gokart track, im planning of going with 35x19.5x3'' as i had issue with electric fan from ford taurus draining alternator causing deadtime issues, i think 32x19.5x2'' is ideal for a v8, the biggest you can fit in front is 28x19.5 and that with cutting the radiator support so a rear mount is a must for v8 or 2jz, by the way i even turn on my heater to get my temp down to 240f

80 pound is alot and it does add up quick when you do engine swap, go with fuel racing it move the engine about 2 inches behind from where sikky would sit, not sure if corner balancing and stiffer spring would help but it would feel as good as stock

[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PyZReXPEgw&t=947s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PyZReXPEgw&t=947s

ls power steering is way too powerful for s13 steering rack, i cant feel the tire while drifting and i cant tell how much im steering.

s chassis need to be stitch welded to feel good and responsive, i prefer my stock frs with pbm suspension over my s13 with ls2.

the headers heat up the floor to the point of melting your own shoes

if its just for street consider ka-t or sr20 is they would be more reliable and easier to work with

I would definitely try to use alloy block, set the engine as far back to the firewall as you can.

S14 with a RB30 block here. I also have my dry sump tank right up front behind the headlamp, Whiteline anti roll bar, damn heavy item, big brakes, all adding weight up front. Road car that I track in club races as well. Battery and electro hydraulic power steering pump are in the boot.

I have 818 Kilos over the front axle , 611 kilos over the back axle for a full up weight of 1435 kg.

Yup, I can feel those extra 200kg upfront but can live with it for the purpose of use of the car. I actually have an overdose of the traditional lack of grip at the back of the S chassis.

If I were building a time attack or strictly track car, I would definitely look at a light weight ally, probably 4 cyl. turbo engine of some sorts..and distribute weight of ancillary items across the platform.