2JZGE oil pump upgrade

hey guys,

just looking for some advise on the endless topic of the 2JZGE oil pump upgrade.

So i have a 2JZGE non vvti motor that i will be prepping for a turbo and e85 upgrade for a drift car.

My plan here is to upgrade the oil pump to a genuine toyota 2JZGTE oil pump.

Now the question is should i be worried about the influx in oil pressure??

Keeping in mind this will be a turbo'd motor with some major upgrades to breather system and also running a haltech elite 2000 with a full range of sensors and protections including a aftermarket trigger system.

im leaning towards this not being to much of a issue as i would prefer a higher oil pressure to accommodate additional oil feed and oil coolers & filter relocation kit. Id imagine the correct choice of engine oil can also keep pressures sensible.

Lastly is there any truth behind the rumour that his could potentially walk out the front mail seal??

You may wish to read this, https://www.my.is/threads/tech-info-difference-between-ge-vvti-and-gte-vvti-oil-pump.437894/, and there's plenty more on-line, including guides.

Long story short...

The base problem is side leakage from the pump getting between the pump assembly and the front seal. This is worsened as the pump wears and/or higher pressures are used.

Every front seal - heck, ALL seals - on any engine will have some means of draining the oil from behind it and relieving the pressure behind the seal. With some older engines the whole area is relatively open and/or there are large relief drillings in the front cap or cover. However, many modern engines have the oil pump mounted on the front of the crankshaft and leakage can be much more excessive and if the drain/relief hole is too small there can be a pressure build up.

The solution is to open up the relief hole so it has the ability to pass enough oil that the pressure never has a chance to build up - guides are on-line. I don't know about that specific engine, but some cases have been reported of aftermarket seals partially blocking reliefs because they are longer than the OEM, especially if it's possible to drive them in too far.

There are some good comments in the link above about whether a high volume pump is even required for many installations, especially if held to quite tight clearances in the crank' bearings.

Oh, forgot, many manufacturers use sintered metal in their pump gear(s), which can fracture under high rpm and/or load - if those pumps do, I'd STRONGLY recommend spending a relatively small additional sum for (billet) steel parts. Lose your pump, lose your engine...