Caliper Adapters

Trying to make up some caliper adapters.

Have an Idea of pressing through a stud on the existing trailing arm to bolt the adapter to the new caliper.

Might have to machine down some of the stud head but won't be sure until it's all together.

Question is would a pressed stud in a trailing arm reduce the cast trailing arm's structure integrity?

If anyone has any other ideas of how I could mount it would be helpful also!? Can supply more photos

Thanks!

Most caliper adapters I'm familiar with, use the existing caliper mounting method, and just bridge to where the new caliper wants to be positions.

I would say start with drawings of your current calipers, and the new calipers. Perhaps we can make a suggestion on how you might proceed.

I have made caliper adapters to allow radial mount calipers to mount to uprights with traditional caliper mounting ears.

Hi David,

Thank you for your response.

Did my photos upload? I have positioned the caliper where I want it and designed a bracket from the existing mounts to the new caliper mounts. I have a CAD file of the brakcet already made. My main concern is that I want to use a stud that presses into the existing mount, but I’m worried if that stud will affect the structural integrity.

This is all just due to the limited space I have.

Sorry, I didn't know what I was looking at, and I'm not clear on what bosses are used for suspension mounting vs. caliper mounts. You circled a boss that didn't look like a caliper mounting location.

Sorry, I don't have enough information to help you. Good Luck!

All good. The one I circled was the original caliper mount on the trailing arm where I wanted to use a stud.

I’ve sorted it out anyway.

As I mentioned, I’m mainly looking for input on whether a press-in stud for the circled boss would affect the structural integrity of that boss.

Thank you for your input though.

Hey Mick, I usually try to use the same size hardware as the original caliper was mounted with. But I think I see the issue that the head of the bolt will contact the calliper in the position you want - which is why you want to use a stud.

Without doing any further research into it, or having any experience using a stud like this I can't comment for sure. But I wouldn't think that it would have a significant negative impact on the structural integrity of the mount on the trailing arm. Once tightened I would think it will be loaded the same way.

Are you concerned about the stud creating some kind of stress concentration when pressed in?

Hi Connor,

That is certainly the issue. The bolt would contact the back of the caliper. Not only they would contact but the adapter thickness would only be around 5mm and im not comfortable with that small amount of thickness.

So one of my ideas was to run a M10 x 1.5 (thats the stand thread and pitch size) stud through the mount hole and run the adapter on the back.

Yeah, once that stud goes in wouldn't that area have more stress or tension on it? The hole isn't meant to have a stud pressed in there. It's only meant to be a guide hole to bolt to the caliper. Also it's only cast.

I do have more photos of another idea.

Thank you

I understand the corner, it's really hard to say whether it would be fine or not.

What about an extra piece, maybe made from steel that has 2 studs pressed, welded or threaded in that ties the 2 mounts together and adds a bit more strength? It could have a hole or arc in it to clear the mounting point for the calliper.

Hopefully that makes sense?

Yeah it's a pretty tight corner to be in thats for sure. I understand it's like asking how long is a piece of sting.

Do you mean. Make the adapter and press the studs into that, so then both the holes on the trailing arm are supported by the adapter?

Something like this......it's not a masterpiece.

Something like that yeah. If it's steel you might have enough space for threads.

I can always try it. The spacing from the back of the caliper to trialing arm is just over a millimetre.

My other idea is this. Using the top trialing arm hole to mount the cailper with a adapter. The issue with that, the annulus needs to be lifted 4mm and that sits it right on the edge of the cailper ear mount. So I designed a bush to go into the caliper. One side 4mm offset and the other side centred with a thread that has the same offset. It positions the caliper more horizontally, and one wall where it goes into the cailper is only a millimetre thick.

Hope that wasn't confusing.