Now what

What do we now do with all this data ie what are the ideal numbers to be aiming for for a neutral to slight oversteer car . I assume from your model that having so much load on right front is not good and we need to reduce this synifacantly

You're not providing much to respond to, Geoff - as a general rule, reducing the outer front load will reduce understeer, whether by increasing rear roll resistance, reducing front - either ARBs, or springs, or both, or adjusting the weight distribution.

Other options may be to alter the damper settings, run a wider front tyre or smaller rear, adjust tyre pressures, adjust the suspension and/or steering geometry, running a tighter or looser diff', etc, or even altering driving style - overdriving is a big issue for provoking understeer.

Even then sometimes it can be something counter-intuitive - way back in the day (I'm old) the Mk 1 & 2 Cortinas, Escorts, and Anglia were prone to TERRIBLE understeer. The quick and easy 'cure' was to run a much stiffer front ARB, or clamp-on, because the reduction of body roll and camber gain in roll was of much freater benefit to front end grip than the theoretical loss from the increased tyre loading.

Hey Geoff, there are no set values anyone can give you that will achieve a neutral to slight oversteer balance for your car, but using your data in this calculator you can start to tune towards the balance you want by better understanding the balance you currently have.

Let's go through an example of how this calculator can be useful for clarities sake.

Let's say your car currently tends to understeer more than you'd like.

If you input your current data into the calculator and it says your current LLTD is 58%, we can call this setup "Understeer Bias" and make an assumption that perhaps this is too much load on the outside front tire of our car (hence the understeer) so we can now use the calculator to test ways to shift this bias to the rear perhaps by testing what a softer front spring might do to the Lateral Load Distribution in theory, before we go out and actually source one to test our assumption.

In the calculator, the "LLTD Component Percentage Front" graph gives you some idea of how heavily each of the components is affecting this forward bias, so lets say the Elastic percentage is significantly higher than the NSM and Geometric contributions, this means the Elastic Components ie. Springs/ARBs are contributing to this forward balance most significantly so a change here should give us a good amount of balance change to test with.

Using the testing in our calculator we decide to make a front spring change that in our calculator amounts to a new LLTD of 55% Front.

We then go out and test and find our corner balance is neutral and feels great... but we've sacrificed the ride in a straight line and the front springs are now too soft to handle the downforce we're producing down a straight.

We're happy with 55% Front LLTD and because we've made good use of data and made calculated changes, we can now go back into the calculator and instead of just a spring change we can try a combination of spring and ARB changes. So we go a little stiffer on the spring to get back some aero platform control in a straight line and we soften the front ARB slightly to once again achieve the 55% LLTD we were happy with.

We test again and now the car corners neutrally and maintains good platform control down the straight.

This setup is now saved as "Neutral Balance" and importantly we now understand why this is the case and how to tune the balance further for example to achieve an "Oversteer Bias" setup with for example 53% LLTD Front.

From here its tune, test, repeat.

There are so many variables that the best method for approaching the balance you want is to change and test, and perhaps in wet conditions you repeat these tests and find that "Neutral Balance - Wet" actually occurs closer to 53% Front LLTD so you can save this setup and implement it when the track is wet, or characterise your anti-roll bar positions so you have a dry and wet setting for example.

To summarise a long answer; this data and the calculator are tuning tools, which means you need to establish a baseline to tune from to really utilise them, and then it's up to you to test and tune to find the ideal numbers for your car and the balance you want with the variables you have to wrangle.

Hope that helps mate.