Can I add fuel through wet nitrous setup on a turbo charged engine to be able to run a big shot, like 300 to 400hp shot?

Hello, I'm very new to learning about tuning and modifying my engine. I've always loved cars, but now that I'm older I can finally afford to play around, lol

I have a 2015 honda accord with a k24w1 engine, I've added a turbo kit and I'm installing a nitrous setup with the maximizer 5 controller from nitrous express. My first thought was to build out an engine and just use turbo and try to get in the 500hp + range. Now I realize that there's no aftermarket upgrade for the stock fuel system, I've talked to people about adding a secondary port injection system with a piggy back controller, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to operate it using the k tuner I have to tune everything.

At first I didn't even realize that I could run nitrous with a turbo, but I bought a used water/methanol kit off ebay and the people at nitrous express were so helpful telling me how to hook it up and I would ask questions about nitrous, that I wound up buying a whole kit from them, lol. Now I'm wondering if I can go a different route and build an engine that can handle the nitrous and run the turbo for normal driving and when I want to get into high hp, turn on the nitrous and have the power there. So basically I'll be trying to use the nitrous solenoid from the wet system to give me the fuel I'll need and I also plan on running the separate fuel cell from nitrous express so I'll be able to use race fuel only when I spray. Will this work in higher hp applications, like a 250 or even up to a 400 shot?

I mostly use the car having fun on the street and plan on taking it to a track here in New Orleans, I raced motocross a good part of my life and still have the need for speed, lol

Hey Andrew!

First of all, I'm no nitrous expert. As far as I know, in a nitrous/turbo combination, nitrous is used to help spool bigger turbos at lower RPM to expand the powerband.

In your case, I think you'll end up choking your turbo when you're gonna spray that nitrous, if your turbo is sized for "normal driving". Turbo compressors are designed to efficiently flow a certain mass of air at certain pressure ratios. If you are trying to make it flow more than what it can provide, the turbo will probably restrict airflow more than anything else. I don't know if that would be the case, but I'd be concerned about overrunning the turbo and if so, that could lead to failures.

At first, I thought the same thing about just spooling turbo, but when I talked with people at nitrous express, they said you can also use it to gain hp all the way through. My turbo is rated for 620hp and if need be, I could also go up a size if I could possibly gain more than that

Like Francis, not something I've played with, but some comments and suggestions.

It sounds like you are thinking of building an engine for that 500-ish power level, in the expectation of having good mid range power and throttle response, and using the NO2 for adding power to around the 900hp mark, so avoiding the low rpm compromises?

In theory, it seems like a good idea, but there are some possible problems.

The first is that the kit is going to be producing a proportional increase in exhaust gases, so you will need a large hotside to avoid choking the engine and severely compromising performance from high exhaust back-pressure, inextreme cases you may even loose power. This will, in turn, mean some loss of the low rpm characteristics you want to keep.

The second thing is that it doesn't address any ignition timing changes that may be required.

The third doesn't seem to be too much of an issue, as rather than having a sudden large increase in torque it can be staged for several smaller steps. This would help keep cylinder pressures within reason, which leads to...

The fourth is the engine will still need to be built for, at least, the cylinder pressures and rpm (see 1), this being, at a minimum, pistons, rods, clutch, head gasket seal and, what is often overlooked, cylinder sleeves and/or sleeve support.

Depending on the ECU you're using, it may be possible to control the addition fuelling for - and the supply of - NO2 through it which may be cheaper and easier than two separate control devices if you only intend using gasoline/petrol. However, some may not be able to control two different sets of fuel injectors which would allow the use of ethanol/methanol with the NO2 to improve the net octane rating of the fuel used to improve the detonation resistance, which the maximiser would allow.

I'm using both - turbo and nitrous if I want to. Anywhere from 35 to 150 hp shot through out entire quarter mile pull. In general it is a good combination but I would not install it on a daily car as it adds complicity to the system thus more chances for something to go wrong. I'd rather install appropriate turbocharger on a daily car to keep it simple (PTE for instance if big power is required) with lots of boost. But having nitrous installed is a lot of fun when you feel instant acceleration in any gear))

Thank you Shota! Are you using nitrous even after getting turbo spooled? The complicity is what makes me want to do it even more, lol. That's why I'm trying to take the courses, lol. I'm a recovering addict and this keeps my mind occupied, like they say, racing truly does save lives!

I have a ktuner v2 where I should be able to change tunes easily and won't be running nitrous constantly, (unless I'm having too much fun, lol)

What motor are you running your setup in?

Yes, I'm usung nitrous after getting turbo spooled during pulls from start to finish. Most of the times i do not use nitrous for turbo spooling but for power adding only. But sometimes i also use it for turbo spooling. It depends on ambient temperature.

I'm using old good stroker 4g64 from Evo... It is also 2.4 liters.

Buy the way, quite a few of friends of mine do the same thing on their 2jz engines - use turbo and nitrous at the same time ( direct port injection).

Thanks! Another question I have is will the fuel solenoid in the wet kit be able to give me all the fuel I need for whatever nitrous shot I use? I'm going to be using a separate fuel cell with race gas that will only be used with nitrous.

The main reason I'm considering this is because of my issue with not being able to upgrade my direct injection fuel system, so I'm limited with only about 300hp using the turbo

Thanks! Another question I have is will the fuel solenoid in the wet kit be able to give me all the fuel I need for whatever nitrous shot I use? I'm going to be using a separate fuel cell with race gas that will only be used with nitrous.

The main reason I'm considering this is because of my issue with not being able to upgrade my direct injection fuel system, so I'm limited with only about 300hp using the turbo

I do have two fuel pumps 550lph. One is on all the time and the second one kicks off when nitrous is activated. You can certainly do the same thing...

The primary limiting factor for the mass of fuel and NO2 injected into the engine is the jet size used, followed by the pressure applied through the jets.

Whether your 'race gas' side is going to be able to provide the fuel required is impossible for anyone to say as you haven't given info on that. It's going to depend on the mass flow rate you need for the NO2, and whether the full system is capable of supplying it - usually it's down to the pump, but the whole system has to be considered.

It may be wise to use a safety pressure switch on the fuel side, as you DO NOT want to run lean on NO2 - not just because of nitrous backfires, but because it may torch your pistons and, possibly, your head.

Running such a large portion of nitrous means a lot less pumping fluid to absorb heat, it also means you will need significantly less ignition timing than the base tune. Is the factory ecu capable of ignition retard based on digital input? I feel like attempting such a massive portion of baseline power with nitrous is playing with the blow torch to start with, even if you were running a fully programmable aftermarket ecu fir everything, let alone piggy backing systems which makes it hard to implement fail-safes or progression in adder/base ignition/fuel to suit.

The item everyone has not covered here is fuel distribution.

Nitrous foggers aren't too bad, as it's a gas, and the intake manifold is designed for dry flow.

You said your fuel system tops out at 300hp, and with the wet shot you want to get to 500, which is 200hp of fuelling supplied by the wet shot effectively.

So you will at full power be trying to evenly distribute 1100cc/min of fuel into the engine. Your nozzle placement would need to be perfect, as 40% of your fuel will be coming from a centre point injection.

There is no problem at all running nitrous the whole way through boost, although I have only run smaller shots in petrol applications.

It is valid comment. I double check the fuel distribution by reading the spark plugs - they tell you pretty much accurately which cylinder is leaner or not...