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Watched the webinar , which was very useful but I would like to ask the following when we do not use the idle solenoid anymore which of the mentioned would be recommended and when the throttle body has a flat blade screw bolt as a bypass .
I tried as an experiment to use the idle ignition control through the link g4+ , but do not see any difference . To get the idle that I want approx. 900rpm , I adjust the throttle body through the screw that adjust the opening of the butterfly and adjust the tps to have at zero . If I have the throttle body completely closed (bolt is loose) idle is around 650rpm and even if I tried to play around the ignition control but it still stayed at 650rpm .
Target rpm is set up although ignition map is still base map as dyno is being repaired at the moment . Although I must have the ignition map correctly set up , I just wanted to see how it works and get a 1st experience .
Thank you .
If you only have the throttle stop screw to adjust then you're going to need to accept some compromise with idle quality but it's still possible to get reasonable results.
I normally set the throttle stop so that my idle speed is around 200 above my target with normal ignition timing and the engine at operating temp. I then use idle ignition control to retard the timing and achieve target. Chances are that this will result in a slightly low idle on cold start so this is the compromise you need to make. It's worked as well as I could expect for me. I try to keep my ignition timing positive when the engine is hot so this limits how high you can set the throttle stop otherwise you'll need excessive retard to pull the idle speed back down.
Thank you Andre for the reply . So when I do as you describe after I set it up at operating temp should I turn the car off and calibrate the tps , so it reads that point as 0 or it doesn't matter if it shows x% ?
So I am continuing the experiments on this as well on other things . I waiting to go to operating temp and set the throttle stop at higher rpm than what I wanted and then used idle ignition control to on and the car instantly went to the 950rpm mark that I wanted even though my table was all at 0 . I am doing some more tests but if I understood correctly from your post in the normal operating temp I could be either 0 or positive even in the minus area of my table ?
Which table is at 0?
You need to configure the TPS span so that it reads 0% when it is hard on the stop. This is essential as aspects such as the idle ignition control function work based on the TPS registering that it is fully closed, or at least very close to it.
I'm not sure I understand your last post though? Please explain more and I'll try to help.
My apologizes for the incomplete post . I meant that I left the car warm up with idle ignition off , adjusted the throttle stop to approx. 1200rpm . Then I turned the idle ignition to on and the car went to 950rpm regardless that the idle ignition table was everywhere 0 . I am putting some values in the idle ignition table to see how the engine reacts .
What I was trying to ask in the previous post was on the x axis there is also a "-" area (-500 , -400 , -300 , etc. ) should that area be slowly also becoming positive while the ect is increasing ?
Also something else that I would like to ask is the idle ignition to be set when you have already set the cold start enrichment , post start etc. or can you do it prior to that ?
If your idle ignition table is fileld with '0's' then that is the ignition timing that will be supplied when you enable it. This is why your rpm dropped to 950. This suggests that you can pull the idle speed back to 950 rpm if you're happy to have the timing sitting at TDC.
Typically what you do is advance the timing as you drop below target idle speed and retard the timing as you go above. So for example you might have 12 deg with an idle error of 0 rpm. As the engine rpm increases above target you'd retard the timing back to perhaps 0-5 deg. If the engine speed is too low then I'd advance the timing to around 22-24 deg. Watch the webinar on this again and it's all explained.
You can enable the idle ignition control at any point. It doesn't really make any difference if you do it before or after the cold start enrichment has been dialled in correctly.
So idle ignition control is a function on the Link G4+ that can deliver a stable idle if not an ISC valve is present or they can be both used at the same time?
It's not necessarily a substitute for an ISC valve and normally is used in conjunction. Idle ignition control often allows faster response to an error in idle speed than an ISC valve. In order to get perfect control of idle speed across all conditions and temperatures you'll definitely still need an idle control valve too.