Webinar 120 choosing an ECU

Trying to determine the correct ecu for my build. I realize as you have stated that it depends on so many variables, but I have already spent too much on the build, and purchased several ecu's. I had to buy an ecu cause the engine did not come with one. I bought a used stock for a stock sr20det. This worked fine until I had to rebuild the engine, and I decided to add some upgrades. Wanting to be able to have a back up ecu in case the re-flash I had chosen to do did not work as expected, I purchased a second ecu and then sent it out for tuning after ensuring it was in good condition ( I had to buy 3 to get one). When the ecu came back, it ran on the stock injectors with a very rough idle, but would not run on the larger injectors, would only flood. After speaking with the tuner, i became very frustrated, so I purchased a stand alone that seemed to be perfect for my application. Unfortunately after i received the ecu, I discovered my engine had been damaged severely from the problems with the re-flash and larger injectors. I had to source another engine, fully rebuild it as well and then proceed to use the new stand alone ecu with a pnp adapter for my engine.

After down loading the base map, and setting up all the configurations, I discovered the my engine flooded on the larger injectors (test mode only). Realizing that either the tune on the re-flashed ecu had damaged the injectors, or they were bad from the beginning, i put the stock injectors back in for testing. I reconfigured the stand alone and everything seemed good. However, when i finished assigning the firing order and the coil set up, running a test resulted in no spark. I tried reconfiguring the ecu in every possible option to no avail. I tried removing the coil modulator for the splitfire coil pack, tried running stocks, replacement stocks, and changed sub harnesses to no avail. I then proceeded to remove the ecu from the jumper connector and ran a continuity test that shows good connection and voltage. I then reconnected the ecu and tested for signals. The main power from the ecu tested fine, but the signal wire to the coils shows no activity. Thus the ecu is dead. I contacted the manufacturer and explained this to them. They asked what stock ecu I had, and then never responded after that. My guess is I am just out an ecu...so now I am concerned that I may have this problem with another manufacturer and do not want to spend another $1500 plus on a gamble. All my previous researched stated that this was an excellent ecu with wonderful support. I do not doubt that if my engine had not been damaged previously requiring me to have to rebuild an entire motor again over the past year an half, they would probably have swapped out my ecu for another one, but being that I had it over a year before I was able to start the the installation...you get the idea.

But this leaves me with a confidence issue from this and now all other ecu options as I have had problems with retune, and stand alone options. Any advice or thoughts would be helpful. Below is a full build list of the current engine in my 1992 240sx hb:

Sr20det redtop s13

sleeved block

CP pistons

Eagle rods

ACL rod bearings

Clevite main bearings and thrust washers

Arp rod, main, head, and flywheel suds and bolts

BC valves, and stage 3 cams

GSPower division seals and guides

Tomei Springs and 1.5mm headgasket

New oem hydrolic lifters, oem rockers, tomie shims

NGK iridium spark plugs

New oem CAS, Starter, Temp Sensor, oil pressure sensor, TPS, oil pump, and pickup tube.

New ISR gasket kit

Megan bottom mount exahast manifold

Greddy Intake manifold V2

Circut spot side feed fuel rail

P2m high out put alternator,

P2m lightweight pulleys and adjustable cam gears

gates belts,

Wiring specialties race tuck harness

new grounding wires

cx racing FMIC

Arashi tdo6 601 7+7 blade turbo

Fidenza flywheel

Spec racing 6 puck unsprung stage 4 clutch

evil enrgey 3/8 braided ptfe fuel line, and 50mm fuel filter

gplus coolant hoses and oil cooler and filter relocation kit

Oasis fpr

ISR oversized oil pan

s14 water neck

stainless steel turbo lines

evil energy oil catch can with breather

isr short ram and z32 maf

Cx racing dual core radiator

RS Type S BOV

ISR O2 housing, o2 sensor, and dump tube

Upgraded Master brake cylinder, r32 brake booster

Splitfire Coil pack

ISR 255 fuel pump

JECs 740cc injectors replacing with Five O 750cc injectors in about 2 weeks

RS Enthroply retune

ECU Master EMU classic stand alone with jumper

wide band Knock sensor, and wide band 02 sensor but not installed as of yet.

full cat back exhaust from ISR 3 inch with 4 inch tip

solid steel drive shaft one piece from driveshaft shop

J30lsd

ISr full suspension upgrade

racing hart brakes, rotors, calpers

stock rims

and God speed coil overs

Personally I'd be pushing back against the ECU manufacturer. I haven't dealt with any manufacturer that won't stand behind their product like you've explained. Ultimately the SR20DET isn't an overly complex engine and there's nothing specifically tricky that needs to be dealt with. Essentially any ECU should be able to run the engine with no trouble. With the injectors the only thing to watch is the impedance as some ECUs can't handle low impedance injectors (unsure what your 750 cc actually are her) and will require a ballast resistor. With the coils you need to understand whether you have internal or external ignitor coils and wire to suit. Any of the ECUs we cover in our courses will be very well suited to your project.