Summary

00:00 - What is the appropriate negative camber front and rear for a dual duty car, daily driver and track work? I have coilovers, uprated subframe bushes, monoball front bushes, semi slicks AD08R and RS4s, lightweight raised wheels, adjustable toe arms for rears etc.
00:17 You've given me some great information there Ziham, I don't actually know what sort of car you're using so without knowing the exact car you're actually using, it's really hard for me to give you maybe as good advice as I would like.
00:30 Let me give you a couple of examples, I mean let's say you've got something like a front engined rear wheel drive, you said you're daily driving it, the problem if you're daily driving it, you can't go as aggressive on your wheel alignment settings as you might otherwise want to.
00:42 The problem is you'll just end up eating the inside of your tyres out, you'll end up, the car will be unpleasant to drive, it'll be flighty so there is a bit of a compromise there between something that's daily driven and something that's a full on track machine, you know you're meeting in the middle there so ultimately you're going to, some ways going to have the worst of both worlds if you're going to want to try and cover both of those things with one car but this is the situation we often have.
01:04 So let's say you've got a front engined rear wheel drive conventional Japanese sports car, you might look at something like maybe in the 1.5 to 2° negative camber on the front axle and that's at a 1-1.5° of static negative camber on the rear axle.
01:19 You might have maybe 0 toe or maybe up to 2 mm toe out total on the front axle and something similar in the back, usually like 1 mm toe in, 1-2 mm total toe in across the rear axle.
01:34 Those are sort of good starting points for camber and toe for the average front engined rear wheel drive car.
01:39 If you're using something front wheel drive, this makes it a little bit different, you might have to stand the front wheels up a little bit more not to hurt your traction as much.
01:45 It depends a lot as well on the amount of camber gain depending on the type of suspension you've got, whether it's multi link, double A arm, MacPherson strut, which straight away has less camber recovery which means you will tend to need to run more static negative camber in the first place.
01:59 All of that stuff is covered in a lot of detail in the course so that's really the best place to find all of that information about how to set up your car depending on the type of suspension you've got in the first place.
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