Boosted BRZ issue starting and idle - Tuned with EcuTek

I purchased a 2014 BRZ that already had a turbo installed and was tuned with EcuTek. I have been trying to get in touch with the tuner that originally tuned the car to make some adjustments, the AFR is a little on the lean side under boost so I haven't been driving the car until I can get this figured out. Unfortunately I found out the original tuner is no longer in business, his number is out of service and website is no longer up. It was tuned but James Martin at HRI tuning, I was told that he didn't lock his tunes however the tune on my ECU seems to be locked. I was able to do a ROM dump and the guys at EcuTek sent me a backup of the ROM but it's not able to be accessed to make changes. I purchased the EcuTek cable with deskey dongle and I also purchased the BRZ Racerom upgrade to be able to tune myself. I have followed the practical reflash tuning course for EcuTek on the BRZ and attempted to make a base rom to flash. I have made the changes for my injector scaling, MAF scaling and MAP scaling since I am using a 4 bar MAP sensor. I have the Fullblown Motorsports Stage 1 Premium Turbo package with the Garrett GTX3076r. I am running DW 1000cc injectors with a dw300c fuel pump. My issue is that I can only get the car started by giving a little throttle when cranking but it doesn't want to stay running and idle. I have changed the idle target settings to have a slightly higher idle but still no luck. I even used the bullet supercharger example ROM to copy all the MAPs over to the proper calibration file for my ecu and still have the same issue. Is there any other turbo base map tunes I could try to at least get the car started and idle to be able to further fine tuning?? Any help would be much appreciated. I can post my current calibration if needed. My ecu ID is ZA1JA01C

Devin,

Because you're working with a reflash platform, you're starting from a tune of a running, work vehicle. I mention that because it's a good reminder that you should only have to make changes which are required for the modifications on the vehicle. The number of settings related to start, idle, fueling, can seem overwhelming, but I hope what I said helps you narrow down which ones you might need to alter, and which ones shouldn't need to change.

For example, if you haven't changed idle target speeds, and the engine is stock, you probably don't have to edit the start/idle airflow values to make the car start and idle. Perhaps small tweaks could make things even better, but that's likely not where your issue lies.

With aftermarket injectors, many things change. The injector characterization data changes, and if it doesn't match the actual injector behavior just right, results will be less than ideal. Then any table related to injector pulsewidth, will need scaled when the injector flow rate changes, but tables related to AFR or lambda, will not have to change because of an injector swap, as long as the injector data, and flow scaling, is just right.

In your case if you need to give it throttle to start, you're likely injecting too much fuel for the normal amount of airflow, and you're getting the air/fuel ratio closer to reasonable by opening the throttle to flow more air, so reducing cranking fuel on time is likely a good place to start.

I hope this helps get you closer to success.

Unrelated to general tuning and specific to that vehicle and turbo kit, if you get to a point where the engine starts well cold, and you can shut it down hot then fire it right back up ok, but if you run the car til it's warmed up, shut it off for 20-40 minutes and it doesn't restart well, that's an unrelated matter specific to the vehicle and turbo kit you have. The MAF gets heat soaked and reads totally wrong on heat soaked restarts. Protecting it from heat will help.

Sometimes even when the tune is locked, you can run the engine, log the data and "reverse engineer" some parameters, to at least have a starting point.